New grass is patchy, in two ways
#11
Ever since we moved in, I've had a hard time growing grass in this one area. Two years ago I moved some brick to make a walkway, so at least I could get around the bad part in the winter and during seeding. This part of the lawn gets sun all day (the driveway is to the south of it), and it's also the only area that doesn't get two sprinklers overlapping, but it does get watered. And the ground was super compacted. 

So this spring (I know fall is better, but timing didn't work out), I decided to do what I saw Roga Cook do on ATOH. I tilled it up, mixed in some bags of "lawn soil" and peat, seeded it, and then spread a thin layer of soil on top.  

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The orange tape did a remarkable job at keeping the dog off it.

The grass was coming up like gangbusters. I think some of it was grass that was already there just poking thru, and it's a fairly wide blade that grows twice as fast as the rest, no idea what variety... And, like years past, I think it grows a little clumpy and shades out areas. Some areas had a lot of new grass, so I tried to weed whack the tall stuff so it wouldn't get too tall.

Here's a good patch.
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Also it's coming in nicely where I raked/blended it into the rest of the lawn. 

Now it's coming in clumpy again. This is where I need advice. There are perfectly good patches of dirt with nothing. I don't get it....

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And then a few weeks ago I started getting brown patches. It almost looks like dog spots, but it didn't happen for months after seeding! And the grass is very matted in spots too.

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I put down some anti fungal stuff, and I'm waiting a week or so to put down the diseaseX stuff. I get random brown patches elsewhere too. Anyone got any ideas? Both for the general patches and the brown stuff? I know the dog doesn't help things, but she pees elsewhere and no spots. Plus we give her food that's supposed to help prevent it (doggy probiotics). I'm really at a loss, frustrated, and I want to make sure I do the right thing come fall when I over/reseed!!
Benny

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#12
It is not clear to me if you mean that the grass lifts up in clumps.  If that is the case it may be because of the watering cycle.

Frequent shallow watering (2 hours every other day) will result in shallow roots.

But deep watering (8 hours once a week) will result in deep roots which will not pull up easily.

I did put down manure one year.  A big mistake.  I had to mow the lawn twice a week.  

I just over-seed to improve the lawn and minimize the amount of weeds.  I used to have lots of dandelions (a neighbor grew them for brewing wine).  Several years of over-seeding twice a year and the dandelions are pretty much history (and so is the weed-brewing neighbor).

http://www.oprah.com/food/dandelion-wine-recipe
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#13
Some cheaper seed has strains in it that will grow patchy. Not only that, other strains will not grow next to it even though it came in the same bag. It may look good a month after planting but once it matures, it really tells the story. We have a very shaded property and the lawn is surrounded by big trees. I read about "Shade" and "Sun and Shade" mixes because of the problems we're having growing a lawn in sandy soil in the shade. Grass seeds are not at all equal. Always good to read about grass seed before going out to buy it.

I actually killed my "clumpy lawn". Tilled it and added some topsoil (not a whole lot) and planted a higher grade seed. It's still not great, probably never will be but it's a whole lot better than it was. We only watered it when it was planted and let rain do the rest.
Neil Summers Home Inspections




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#14
I still think it might be the fault of the automatic sprinkler system doling out short doses of water daily.

Can you adjust the sprinkler to water more heavily on alternate days?  Or once a week?
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#15
I can definitely change my watering cycle. The problem I have is even by the end of day 1, it's crispy to the touch on sunny hot days. This particular patch of land gets direct sun from 7 to 7 this time of year... So is there a way to water deep but prevent crispiness? I'm concerned my soil just isn't conducive to it...

To answer Cooler's question, it doesn't come out in clumps, at least not that I've seen, it seems to grow that way.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a quality seed? And/or a good species for this environment? I think I read rye is good for relatively high traffic/heat areas.
Benny

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#16
I also forgot to mention I nicked a sprinkler line...

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Just buying a coupler didn't do it, these were a quasi threaded type, and wouldn't seal...

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So I finally found a hardware store that would sell me tubing by the foot, and did an old school patch under the cover of darkness, my trusty magnetic flashlight stuck to my drain spade.

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Still holding.
Benny

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#17
The one thing I've found is true is that regular core aeration does absolute wonders for grass, at least in my area. I used to rent a pull behind unit, and this year I invested in one. I'll plug in the spring, and again in the fall, overseeding where it needs it as seed is expensive when you've got an acre and a half of lawn. Don't need herbicides if you keep the lawn healthy as the grass chokes off the weeds.
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#18
I think I would just over-seed a few times this season.  The problem is that a rotary mower will suck up the seeds.  That is why spring and fall are preferred.  

You can try hydroseeding.  I think you need to hire a service for this, but this site indicates differently:

https://www.doityourself.com/stry/hydroseeding
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#19
I was really impressed by the seed the electric company was using in the neighbor's yard.  It grew right away, looks great.  Then it turned out they didn't dig in the right place, because they came back a week later and dug another hole about 10' away.  That seed is not growing at all.
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#20
(07-03-2018, 12:45 PM)Cooler Wrote: I think I would just over-seed a few times this season.  The problem is that a rotary mower will suck up the seeds. 


You don't mow for several weeks after you've seeded.

I'd wait until September. Seed it, cover with straw and keep it moist. Don't mow until the grass gets established, then mow it no shorter than 3".
Mark

I'm no expert, unlike everybody else here - Busdrver


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