interior window trim buckling/warping

[Cooler]

I would assume it was leaking from the top and gravity was bringing it to the bottom.  I still think that is a safe assumption.  

You need good flashing at the top and reasonable weep holes at the bottom to prevent water damage.  

Back when storm windows were in vogue, my parents' neighbor had them installed.  The installer caulked all the weep holes closed.  In just two years the neighbor not only had to replace almost all of his windows, he had to have some of the framing replaced.  

The previous owner of my house had a skylight installed in a 20 year old roof (maybe even older).  The flashing failed and it leaked when I moved in.  I tried re-flashing and then adding two courses of shingles above the skylight sealing each course with sealant.  The next time it rained, it leaked.  

I added 4 more courses and sealed each course.  The next time it rained, it leaked.

I finally added enough courses to make it to the ridge.  That solved the problem (until the new roof three years later).

Water likes to find a route into things.  Effective flashing is the only thing I know that really works.

If you can work the flashing under the siding you might want to try that.  Caulking may offer some relief, but I think flashing is the answer.

[Roly]

I would assume it was leaking from the top and gravity was bringing it to the bottom.  I still think that is a safe assumption.  

You need good flashing at the top and reasonable weep holes at the bottom to prevent water damage.  

Back when storm windows were in vogue, my parents' neighbor had them installed.  The installer caulked all the weep holes closed.  In just two years the neighbor not only had to replace almost all of his windows, he had to have some of the framing replaced.  

The previous owner of my house had a skylight installed in a 20 year old roof (maybe even older).  The flashing failed and it leaked when I moved in.  I tried re-flashing and then adding two courses of shingles above the skylight sealing each course with sealant.  The next time it rained, it leaked.  

I added 4 more courses and sealed each course.  The next time it rained, it leaked.

I finally added enough courses to make it to the ridge.  That solved the problem (until the new roof three years later).

Water likes to find a route into things.  Effective flashing is the only thing I know that really works.

If you can work the flashing under the siding you might want to try that.  Caulking may offer some relief, but I think flashing is the answer.

 I agree with flashing for best results.    On top of the window what looks to be about a 1/4" thick strip of wood with a notch cut out ?   Also is that just a shadow on the right side of the frame where it meets the siding or is it a gap ?   Roly

[GreatDane]

 I agree with flashing for best results.    On top of the window what looks to be about a 1/4" thick strip of wood with a notch cut out ?   Also is that just a shadow on the right side of the frame where it meets the siding or is it a gap ?   Roly

Sorry, I took that picture at night with a flash.  It's just a shadow, here's updated daylight one, though it's still in shadow. I also took one of the other side, where we're not having issues (unless it's all flowing to the other side), and I'll attach that, too. It looks much the same (if not "worse"?) 

And the notch is out of the siding, not wood. Fwiw, we're not having problems at any other windows, and all appear to be done similarly. Though it seems this side of the house does take a lot of storms throwing water its way. It looks as though the siding comes down over the window, though due to caulk/paint it's hard to tell how much. 

Boy, in the preview, my pics look HUGE! If they come through that way, sorry!

[Stwood_]

I don't really see a problem on top of the window. Looks like the L (flashing) is on top as it should be, hopefully back under the siding.
Was the siding replaced when the windows were? If not, hopefully they didn't just cut the window flange off, shove the window in and caulk it up.

[Roly]

Stwood would you right click on the above photos and click view photo then click the photos again to enlarge.  To me it looks too thick for flashing, maybe part of the old window.  Also the metal flashing shown to the left and right of the window looks like it may dump water right on the corner joint of the window.  On windows without a flange (replacement type) how are they sealed on top ?  Roly

[GreatDane]

Stwood would you right click on the above photos and click view photo then click the photos again to enlarge.  To me it looks too thick for flashing, maybe part of the old window.  Also the metal flashing shown to the left and right of the window looks like it may dump water right on the corner joint of the window.  On windows without a flange (replacement type) how are they sealed on top ?  Roly

Thanks, both. I'm not sure I follow re: just shoving the window in; looks as though it's in properly (under the siding). Unfortunately, we just bought last year, so I'm not sure of the history.


The last photo I'll post (promise). I got up there to caulk it and realized that I think the photos were making the crack look worse than it was. Now, after having sealed the area (and elsewhere, just in case), it occurred to me that I probably should have cleaned off the paint, as I wonder if it's merely the paint on the siding that's cracked and there's not even a potential leak? Anyway, fwiw, here's a last one (with a tape measure and a flashlight to minimize shadows.) Thanks again for all the comments!

[Stwood_]

Stwood would you right click on the above photos and click view photo then click the photos again to enlarge.  To me it looks too thick for flashing, maybe part of the old window.  Also the metal flashing shown to the left and right of the window looks like it may dump water right on the corner joint of the window.  On windows without a flange (replacement type) how are they sealed on top ?  Roly

Ok. Did. Something strange there. 1/8" thick flashing?

Replacements are just caulked in. A few screws from the frame into the opening studs, maybe.

Thanks, both. I'm not sure I follow re: just shoving the window in; looks as though it's in properly (under the siding). Unfortunately, we just bought last year, so I'm not sure of the history.


The last photo I'll post (promise). I got up there to caulk it and realized that I think the photos were making the crack look worse than it was. Now, after having sealed the area (and elsewhere, just in case), it occurred to me that I probably should have cleaned off the paint, as I wonder if it's merely the paint on the siding that's cracked and there's not even a potential leak? Anyway, fwiw, here's a last one (with a tape measure and a flashlight to minimize shadows.) Thanks again for all the comments!

Like Roly, I don't understand the metal flashing on both sides of the window? Are they *under* the siding?
And like he says, maybe they are dumping water on top of the window?

[Cooler]

How much eave do you have over this window?  And how high above the window is the eave?

I think most houses have 12" to 18" deep eaves (soffits).

[GreatDane]

How much eave do you have over this window?  And how high above the window is the eave?

I think most houses have 12" to 18" deep eaves (soffits).

It's just 7-8" deep, starting at 14" above the right corner and going up from there. So, apparently subjected to more rain than normal.

I've sealed it with clear silicone. If I pour water - thinking of adding food coloring - against the window, none should enter the home, correct? Would that be true at any amount of water, at any rate of pouring? Or only if it's able to drain as fast as I pour, and if I pour too fast, that it would be normal to have some enter the home?

[Cooler]

It's just 7-8" deep, starting at 14" above the right corner and going up from there. So, apparently subjected to more rain than normal.

I've sealed it with clear silicone. If I pour water - thinking of adding food coloring - against the window, none should enter the home, correct? Would that be true at any amount of water, at any rate of pouring? Or only if it's able to drain as fast as I pour, and if I pour too fast, that it would be normal to have some enter the home?

It should resist the best efforts of your garden hose when on a medium-wide pattern.