How to Fix Bowed Plane Blade
#14
  Re: How to Fix Bowed Plane Blade by hbmcc (Before I take my tru...)
Keep in mind that, even once you do get the blade straightened out, the chipbreaker may need a bit of modification in order to mate correctly to the back of the iron. I've had to file/stone more than one chipbreaker before it stopped getting shavings jammed underneath it.
Steve S.
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#15
  Re: How to Fix Bowed Plane Blade by hbmcc (Before I take my tru...)
OK..... No HF rubber hammer. A "bow" is a poor definition of what *was* going on. And geometry has never encountered a dummy as dumb as me, so this is what I will do for lack of finding the terms I know exist.....

Look at a bowl The inside of the bowl was the cap side of the iron. Not only was the iron warped longitudinally, it was warped in the latitudinal direction also--inside of narrow face (bow) pointing to the cap. The chip breaker could do nothing but be gappy. You grow your own picture and snigger at my terms.....

I think a 7oz hammer would have straightened the warps. I used a 24/28 oz framing hammer. This steel is pretty maleable. There are a multitude of ocean swales on this thing now. This after someone did a surface grinder job. However, I can go in and reasonably flatten the back the same time I sharpen. And, dang, the edge is out of square too. The chip breaker may be in good shape. 

I can do the rest. Thanks everyone!
Bruce
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#16
  Re: How to Fix Bowed Plane Blade by hbmcc (Before I take my tru...)
Did I ever explain how long it takes me to sharpen plane blades? 

This one included some extras. The back took a while to flatten. I started with some no-name Boeing Surplus 'heavy' grit and worked down to about 600 wet/dry. Most of the surface grind is gone near the edge on that side. I continued hitting the back as the primary bevel was rebuilt through about 1000/45 diamond. I should just break out the grinding wheel.

There is a huge leap from 45(funny u) to .5(funny u)--that's microns--and the secondary bevel can go wonky in this process. I never get final hones in half-a-dozen strokes. Especially when working a camber. After all the effort the nicks are gone but the secondary bevel looks like it did before.  The wavy blade that was wavy before is accentuated by the secondary bevels.

Of course, due to the garage being cleared everything is in chaos, so no Fluid Film. I opened a box having straight Lanolin and scraped that sticky mess over the bare metal. 

Cuts pretty well.
Bruce
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