Mounting a chess board into a table: need your thoughts

[jgourlay]

Gents, having argued myself into a circle, I'm turning to you.   The 'chess table' will be a table with, essentially, a big square hole in the top for a board that is already complete.  This whole affair will see frequent use as a dining table, study table, table in a busy family place.  It needs to serve in those capacities.  Put another way...a person with a plate or bowl and a glass and bread plate should be able to use it comfortably.    The board itself is large:  20+" on a side.  So the 'frame' around it will be somewhere in the 6-10" range (not decided yet).  Closer to 6" is more likely though as the drawers won't be accessible of the frame is too wide.  Last consideration:  while I want the whole table to be a family heirloom, I REALLY want the board to survive, so I am loathe to actually glue the board in place.

The conundrum:  how to mount the board?  The obvious choice is "flush to the top of the frame".  However, as you know, over time with wood movement eventually one corner of the board will go a 1/64" shallow while another corner goes 1/128" proud, with both becoming an annoyance.  A second choice would be to mount it low by some amount needed to allow a transitional beading (1/2"?).  But then this requires a removable cover, which would need to be cosmetic.  Meaning, with a 1/2" 'depth', 1/4" mdf (or aluminum?) veneered with 1/8" of pretty on either side.  Is this durable?  Or floppy and prone to breakage?

Maybe mount the board high, and make a frame that could be added for 'dinner'?  This just seems weird, but may work.  Or maybe mount the board flush and make a decorative top covering the whole thing?  And as a bonus on the 'bottom' of the decorative cover inlay in a Scrabble board?  Seems like folks would play much just from the pain of removing some 3'x3' board.  

You can see the problem. What do you suggest?  Oh, in case you're curious, the board is Satinwood and Cocobolo squares with an ebony 'frame' accented with amboyna burl.  The pieces and squares where made from the same log.

[Bill Wilson]

Could you cover the entire top with glass?  Then you play or eat without ever changing the top.

[hbmcc]

Could you cover the entire top with glass?  Then you play or eat without ever changing the top.

+1 for plate glass to cover the top conundrum.

Regarding a new table--assumed based on your variables--you really need about forty inches for a dining table with opposing chairs. Or, split the difference, at 8-inches. If there are drawers the cross bracing (doublers) and the fronting top expansions, two 8-inches, carry the the table's required loads. Drawers cutouts to access the game storage in the aprons will probably compromise the table strength.

My two cents,

[jgourlay]

+1 for plate glass to cover the top conundrum.

Regarding a new table--assumed based on your variables--you really need about forty inches for a dining table with opposing chairs. Or, split the difference, at 8-inches. If there are drawers the cross bracing (doublers) and the fronting top expansions, two 8-inches, carry the the table's required loads. Drawers cutouts to access the game storage in the aprons will probably compromise the table strength.

My two cents,

Bill:  thanks.  Glass makes most sense.

hb:  I appreciate what you're saying.  I thought about this for a while and came up with what I think are some pretty artistic looking gussets that make the whole thing wrack proof.  Or so I hope.  I'll leaving shortly for some work related travel.  Will post picture when I get back.

[handi]

You may well be overthinking this. There are thousands of examples of antique tables with a removable game board in the top. These are often unsecured, just sitting in a lip.

They also frequently have the game board on one side and the other side matches the rest of the table, or often a chess board on one side and a backgammon board or felt surface on the other.

Worst case, you could plow the recess for your game board a bit too deep and put leveling screws in like the insert plate for the router.

[Cooler]

You may well be overthinking this. There are thousands of examples of antique tables with a removable game board in the top. These are often unsecured, just sitting in a lip.

They also frequently have the game board on one side and the other side matches the rest of the table, or often a chess board on one side and a backgammon board or felt surface on the other.

Worst case, you could plow the recess for your game board a bit too deep and put leveling screws in like the insert plate for the router.

That was my thought too.  He could drill four 1" diameter holes and place a piece of velcro next to each one and then velcro the board in place.  He will need the holes to press out the board when time comes to remove it.  It will be secure.  But leveling it will be problematic.  I think I would mount it so it is about 1/4" higher than the surrounding table.  That way if any liquids spill it is not likely to reach the board.

Thinking about it now a lip around the perimeter of the board to rest on the table opening will make a tidy appearance and allow easy removal for cleaning up messes.  A ¼ round molding would work.  It will eliminate any gap between the board and the table opening as it will overlap the opening.