technique help
#11
My daughter and I have been practicing making pens. The problem we are having is making the spindle straight from end to end. How do you get it straight with no low of high spots? I have been trying to lock my back hand into my gut and then pinch the blade with my thumb and forefinger and have that pressed against the tool rest. I then try to move side to side in a smooth motion.
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#12
I have not turned a pen, in fact, I'm not a good turner.  When I want a straight section, I turn it as close as I can then take sand paper cut to the size needed.  By the time I go through the different grits, it looks perfect.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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#13
I interpret side-to-side as back and forth. I don’t do that.
Is this what you meant?
When I turn a spindle, I only go in one direction for each cut.
Gary

Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
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#14
Pens look a little nicer with some curves. I like to have each piece a little thicker in the center then taper each end so it’s a tight fit with the pen parts. Take a look at the Penn State catalog for some ideas.
Don
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#15
I have turned a lot of pens. Pens look better with curves. That said, the easiest way I've found to get it straight is a carbide tool witth a rectangular cutter. I make sure the tool rest is parallel to the mandrel or centers and I pinch the tool shaft with my thumb and forefinger and use my finger as a depth gauge. I turn from both ends towards the middle. this helps avoid chipout on the ends of the barrel.
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#16
(10-22-2018, 04:49 PM)Bope Wrote: My daughter and I have been practicing making pens. The problem we are having is making the spindle straight from end to end. How do you get it straight with no low of high spots? I have been trying to lock my back hand into my gut and then pinch the blade with my thumb and forefinger and have that pressed against the tool rest. I then try to move side to side in a smooth motion.

For straight things like rolling pins, I use a skew almost like a scraper.  I almost always use a basic overhand grip pressing down onto the rest.

I always put some curve in my pens though.
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#17
IMMHO, Some pens look better with straight barrels:
Baron
Jr. Gent
Jr. Statesman
many Cigars are straight but taper.

I like a little curve in the barrel of slimlines.
Often, a highly segmented barrel needs to be straight to display the maker’s workmanship; look at Mark James’ craft on www.penturners.org as an example.
Gary

Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
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#18
(10-22-2018, 08:33 PM)badwhiskey Wrote: For straight things like rolling pins, I use a skew almost like a scraper.  I almost always use a basic overhand grip pressing down onto the rest.

I always put some curve in my pens though.

Overhand grip is a great recommendation.  Make and keep your toolrest smooth by not allowing the tool to bounce and nick it, and your work smooth by holding a constant tool presentation with your arms, not your fingers.  Arms are a lot stronger.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#19
Thanks for the tips. It sounds like we are doing all the right things just need more practice. My fall back is as Bill said stop a little early and finish with sanding. I agree a little fat in the middle of the slimlines looks better. My problem is it still needs to be a smooth taper up and down. My high and low spots were more frequent. I have plenty of scrap to practice with. I have just been drilling out blanks with a 1/4" bit so they slide on the mandrel with no tubes. Put the bushings on then the only thing I am out is some scrap and time.
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#20
(10-22-2018, 04:49 PM)Bope Wrote: ......How do you get it straight with no low of high spots? I have been trying to lock my back hand into my gut and then pinch the blade with my thumb and forefinger and have that pressed against the tool rest. I then try to move side to side in a smooth motion.
How long have you been turning?  It almost sounds like you're using too much force.  Are your tools sharp?  Small, light passes with sharp tools will get you a lot farther on small items like pens. I rarely find myself having to brace the tool with my body even on larger items.

When I want a straight surface or gentle curve after I get close I'll put the gouge or skew down and switch to sand paper wrapped around a board or file to get to the final shape.  I'm not one of those guys who can get that perfect polished surface with just the skew.
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