Shed Project: Doors
#21
(10-23-2018, 06:22 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: I think you and Joe are the only 2 I've ever seen do that. I never did as it was just another extra step.


I really like the red on those doors. Makes the shed look good.

Horns have been around for hundreds of years.  One reference.   And another.   They were used to prevent the end of the stile from blowing out when mortises were chopped by hand, and to protect the ends of the door before it was installed.  I use them on man doors to make taking them apart easier while I'm fitting the loose tenons.  Just my way of doing things.   

My wife and I both thought red would look good on the doors. Glad you like them.

John
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#22
(10-22-2018, 08:14 PM)jteneyck Wrote: These were extra long, to be sure, but I always leave them long and cut them off later.  Those "horns" make it easy to knock the frame apart when you are fitting the joints.  This can be really important when you make a molded cope/stick frame as you can't whack the stiles with a mallet to disassemble it w/o risk of damaging those molded edges where the panels will go.  With the horns you have something to whack w/o worry of doing any damage.  


If you make haunched integral tenons you should definitely leave the stiles long so as not to risk blowing out the end of the stile or, even worse, cracking the stile if the tenon is just a bit too snug.  Of course, if you fit the tenons carefully this shouldn't happen, but sometimes the woodworking gods conspire against you.  

I cut the stiles off with my portable circular saw along a straight edge, then sanded.  Plenty good enough for these doors.  When I can't take any chances I use a router.  

John

Years ago almost every door company that sold slabs left the ears on, about 3/4". If the doors are to painted, stained etc the ears keep the bottom off the floor. We used to seal the top and bottom of each door with shellac.  As far as the glue goes, often no need for any glue at all if a draw pegged look is acceptable. I have made outside doors using draw pegs and know these doors joints have never separated in some cases 50 years. Draw pegs are different from pegging. 
The tenons are marked thru the hole in the stiles with a sharp auger bit or a transfer punch.  The rails and stiles are separated, the hole in the tenon is offset away from the stile end about 1/16" or so. When all of the rails have been bored, install the rails to the stiles without glue. I use 3/8" diameter dowels that are slightly pointed with a pencil sharpener. The dowels ( pegs) are cut about 2-1/2" long and the un-pointed end is chamfered slightly on a sander. The pegs are driven , the rail is pulled up tight . The peg proud of the stile by about 1/8". The pegs could also be left without a bevel and left flush. The peg is cut off with a fine tooth saw on the back of the door either flush or 1/8" proud. Beveling the pegs on the backside is a bit tedious, I use a sandpaper stick. No clamps are needed to pull the rails and stiles together except if the tenons are a tight fit. 
If the bores are offset much more than 1/16" , take precautions and clamp a scrap with a 5/8" hole over the back side of the door to prevent blow out from the draw peg. I rarely have to do this as I am careful to only offset the bore 1/16"
mike
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#23
Beautiful job, John! Looks nice in that setting on your property.

Doug
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#24
(10-31-2018, 11:12 AM)Tapper Wrote: Beautiful job, John! Looks nice in that setting on your property.

Doug

Thanks Doug.  Just because, here's a view showing both sets of doors.  Just have to install the white trim under the left set of doors and the shed is officially done.  Oh yeah, I have to make some sort of critter guards to keep the skunks and racoons from taking up residence underneath it for the Winter.  Then I will call the building inspector so they can come out and bless my work.  

And I have to agree, the shed looks really good where it sits on our property; very nice to look at from our deck.  My wife doesn't miss the garden space I took for the shed either.  

John  

[Image: Wbqbw-O0DTX37PO4LT6IM-_cnSe7c-J-GT3rdIbh...06-h566-no]
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#25
That's a beaut!  I dare say, having followed all the build threads, there are a lot of houses being constructed today that aren't built as well or as nicely.

Well done!
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?

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#26
I agree with Bill. You could rent that thing out on Air BnB if you wanted to. Looks awesome.

I'd have something cushy for the building inspector to land on because he's going to be blown away when he sees this "lumber shed". As an alternative, he could save a site visit and just read through all your posts.

Again, awesome job. Thanks for letting the rest of us in on your journey.
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#27
I just noticed your gutter drain. Is it dumping into your foundation rock?
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#28
(11-01-2018, 02:25 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: I just noticed your gutter drain. Is it dumping into your foundation rock?

Ya gotta go to the first post; he put in a really nice drainage system before framing it up.

https://www.forums.woodnet.net/showthrea...id=7340161
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#29
Ah ok. I forgot that. Thanks Admiral!!
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#30
(11-01-2018, 03:44 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: Ah ok. I forgot that. Thanks Admiral!!

Like I said earlier, if I built a shed that nice, my bride would make me live in it!!!!
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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