Chuck advice needed
#8
I've had my old 10er, Shopsmith for 40 years, and used it for some turning.
Not long ago I turned a cell phone speaker, after not using the lathe for a few years, and thought of using it more,
and would like suggestions for a, not break the bank, chuck.
The Shopsmith has a 5/8" spindle.
Thinking it would be worthwhile to buy a chuck, that could be used on threaded spindles also, so if I got into it, and decided to buy a real lathe, I could use it.
Thanks for any advice.


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I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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#9
Sorry about pic size!
Can't seem to edit.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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#10
I had exactly the same problem.

Short version: Super Nova 2 with a 5/8" insert.

Long version: I tried turning on my 10ER with its faceplate and found that while it was fun, I longed for a chuck. I settled on a Super Nova 2 with a 5/8" straight shaft insert Whee! No more faceplate screws to worry about hitting. After making a lot of practice shavings and some funny-shaped firewood, my wife wanted a good piece so I started learning the new skills I would need for it. During that exercise, I had a bad catch (my mistake - I did something dumb) and bent the spindle. I straightened it but I saw the limitations of the 10ER. When I told her I couldn't make her vase because the 10ER wasn't strong enough, she asked me when the new lathe would arrive! Is that a great wife or what???

A new insert and my chuck went right on my new Galaxi. I didn't even waste the 5/8" insert because I put the chuck back on the 10ER and use it standing up as a glue press for my segmented turnings.

While I like the Nova chucks, any chuck that takes inserts will be just fine, both now and in the future. Just don't get rid of that 10ER Mine is now a glue press, drum sander, second drill press, slow speed grinder to touch up my gouges, and even a small lathe occasionally.

Have a wonderful trip down the vortex.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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#11
Thanks. Just the info I needed!
I see they have different jaw sizes. 2", 3", 5". What is the smallest dia a 2" jaw will hold?
Does the inside and outside of the Jaws grip stock?
As you can tell, I know nothing about the chuck's.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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#12
The 50 mm jaws that come stock on the chuck will hold contracting between 1-3/4 and 2-1/2" and will hold expanding between 2 and 2-3/4? Subtract 1" or add 1, 2, or 3" for 25, 75, 100, and 130 mm jaws respectively.

The Cole jaws will go up to about 10" and the extended jaws will go to about 12"

I would suggest you stick with the "free" 50 mm jaws until you find that you need something else.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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#13
for a beginner, the only jaws I would consider other than the stock ones until you figure out what you want to turn are pin jaws.
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#14
(11-05-2018, 09:05 AM)crokett™ Wrote: for a beginner, the only jaws I would consider other than the stock ones until you figure out what you want to turn are pin jaws.


Concur.  The 50mm are really only capable of holding the work in expansion mode, so the minimum bottom width is around 3".  The pin jaws will wedge into a 1" mortise, or, more handily, bottom in a 1X3/4" hole to start pieces.  Highly recommended.

Next would be the 75mm, which will wedge into a 3" mortise or shoulder on a 1.5" tenon.  My recommendation for a third set.

None should "grip" as the OP used the term.  They snug up as a wedged tenon in the mortise designed for them, or wedge their nose up against a properly tapered and shouldered tenon.  I routinely turn up to the inboard capacity of my Nova 3K on the 50mm, though as a born coward, I preserve a pillar with my tailstock until the piece is near its lightest weight.

   
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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