finally figured out how to use the fence on my PM66
#21
I need to adjust the pointer so it's exactly 10 inches off.  I probably will stick to that for now. I never really understood the value of the pointer, so I never bothered to figure out how far off it was.  

But I definitely like the idea of a putting down a new scale more than moving and cutting the rail.
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#22
(11-23-2018, 06:04 PM)EricU Wrote: If you use the ruler on the fence rail, it's not annoying at all.  My old way of doing it was to line up the blade with a mark and then lock down the fence.  The fence would move, so it was an iterative process.  Now I realize if you match up to your mark and then start using the ruler, all that goes away.  I'm not 100 percent convinced that I like doing that, but it's a lot better.  There is a lot less going back and forth.

When I got the saw, I didn't like that the rail stuck fairly far off of the right end of the extension table, and didn't go all the way to the left of the blade.  So the ruler has been off by 10" this whole time.  I'm trying to decide if that really matters.  But if I did move it over where it's supposed to be, I would cut it even with the end of the table.

Ive seen people say this over the years. Never understood it. Either I am lucky, or stupid.

Bought my 66 new in Dec 2008. Set it up. Adjusted the fence per the instruction manual. Nothing has changed in a decade. Its still nuts on. 


Confused

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#23
It has been too long for me to say if I adjusted the fence like the manual says.  I think I did, but maybe not.  Still working on it. I know I squared it, but maybe there is more adjustment available to get rid of the slop.

There probably are differences in saws though.  Mine was one of the last made, and there was evidence that the workers were taking their frustrations out on the saw.  The packaging guys in particular.  They ran screws down the sides into the pallet in a way that it scratched the paint.  It annoyed me that they couldn't generate just a little pride in their work, but the scratched paint wasn't bad enough to do anything about. And I have never figured out what's wrong with the miter gauge that causes it to scratch the top. The fence has never seemed right, but it's not bad enough to prompt me do anything about it.
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#24
read the manual, it doesn't say anything about the squaring set screws except how to make the fence square.  And also, if the handle is too tight, back them off.

I am not sure I fully understand how the fence is supposed to slide.  It seems inevitable that it's suppose to ride on the sides, but there is a procedure to space them 1/32" off the table. Which is it?

I adjusted the sides and tightened up the squaring set screws until it doesn't flop much at all when I move it. Maybe there was a time when they adjusted the fence like that before they shipped it.

The 't' of the fence isn't quite square.  Not sure if this really matters though.
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#25
(11-25-2018, 12:27 PM)EricU Wrote: The 't' of the fence isn't quite square.  Not sure if this really matters though.

Honestly, what matters IMHO is that the fence is parallel to the blade, well mine is about 1/32" or so larger on the outfeed side of the blade (to allow a tiny amount of play to prevent binding)

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#26
Just lay down a new tape.   Don't know about the PM fence, but doesn't the index "mark" have provisions for adjustment, allowing setting it to exactly "0"?  

I built a Biesemeyer copy, "T" square fence at least fifteen years ago.  I've checked it maybe once a year since and its still "on the money".   Virtually all modern fences are simply "a set it and forget it" dead on affair, the indexes can be adjusted for "0" and don't move. Taking advantage of parallax, you can easily fudge +/- a 64th if need be. 

The fence, and the blade, should be parallel to the miter slot, and the fence faces perpendicular to the surface of the table.   Some folks like to have the fence angle away from the blade a little, but prefer things to be parallel.   If you want to nit pick a little, the fence face can easily be shimmed so it's within +/- 0.001" or better along its entire length.
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#27
I read and reread this. I read the OP and some small bit of the other stuff.
No comprende.
Do you have a T-square fence; the kind with a little lens and a line to read the rule below? If so, why don’t you use it?
I have that, and I rely on it very much. I suppose I have situations not to use it, but no way do I not use it at all. I set it for each blade. I tune it. I get it accurate enough that the precision is far better than my eyesight. If I have some board that doesn’t meet dimensional requirements, it can be attributed to my diminishing eyesight. No way does the instrument produce inaccurate results. If it does, it needs to be tuned.
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#28
(11-25-2018, 11:56 AM)EricU Wrote: It has been too long for me to say if I adjusted the fence like the manual says.  I think I did, but maybe not.  Still working on it. I know I squared it, but maybe there is more adjustment available to get rid of the slop.

There probably are differences in saws though.  Mine was one of the last made, and there was evidence that the workers were taking their frustrations out on the saw.  The packaging guys in particular.  They ran screws down the sides into the pallet in a way that it scratched the paint.  It annoyed me that they couldn't generate just a little pride in their work, but the scratched paint wasn't bad enough to do anything about. And I have never figured out what's wrong with the miter gauge that causes it to scratch the top. The fence has never seemed right, but it's not bad enough to prompt me do anything about it.

Are you talking about the slop on a unlocked fence ?   If you adjust the screws until there is no slop on the unlocked fence you wont be able to lock it.   If I am lining up a cut from a mark and not a measurement just lightly move the locking handle towards lock and it will square the fence so you can get to your mark then lock it.     Roly
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#29
I was talking about the slop on an unlocked fence.  It's a pain, because if you move it in a given direction, locking it moves it more in that same direction.  After handi's post above, I removed almost all of the slop and it's a lot nicer to use.  Still can lock. I might loosen it up a little, but for now it's working.

I still need to adjust the pointer, it's about 1/16" off of being 10" off.
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#30
I have a Beis on my PM2000.  I engage the lock lever part way to square up the fence, then tap the fence to the exact measurements I need, then lock it down.  
Once the hairline on the fence is adjusted properly, it is very accurate.  Early on, I spent the time making test cuts, measuring, then adjusting the hairline.  After that, it's important that you only use tapes measures that exactly match your table saw fence rule.  When I buy a new tape measure, I make sure to take a measured off cut, then find a matching tape measure.
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