Shop built lathe extension

[Splinter Puller]

I wanted to turn a few Christmas present projects that exceeded the capacity of my Jet mini-lathe.   Being frugal (cheap!) I wondered if I could build my own extension instead of buying a $100 plus factory cast iron model.   I saw on the interweb a few other's had built their own so I decided to give it a try.   Here is my version



I measured the cast iron surfaces on my lathe and found they were 1-1/2" wide x 5/8" deep.   I used 1-1/2" angle iron to form the extension surfaces and added maple fillers below to bring the thickness up to 5/8" to match the lathe cast iron.  The Maple has proven hard enough to hold the tail stock and tool rest clamps just fine.     The wooden block on the attachment end is sized so that it's bottom rests on the machined "lip" on the end of the lathe.  This keeps the angle iron surfaces in perfect alignment with the surface of the cast iron.



To hold the wooden extension to the lathe I used threaded rod.   Two 3/8" rods at the top provide tension and hold the extension tight to the lathe while resisting downward forces...  I drilled new holes closer to the top of the lathe then the existing metric holes in the lathe to provide this tension support nearer the top where it's needed.



Near the bottom I drilled and tapped a 5/16" hole for a single threaded rod which supports the bottom of the extension and pulls the extension down into two leveling "gibs".  These gibs are 3/8" bolts in tapped holes and are adjusted in or out to raise or lower the end of the extension to align the upper surface parallel with the existing lathe.





Once the threaded rods are adjusted and tensioned, the lathe extension proved solid and steady.    It works great and the total cost was $10 or less for the threaded rod and angle iron scraps.  The savings might go to a Lathe upgrade if I find myself turning longer items more often.   

[MichaelMouse]

I wanted to turn a few Christmas present projects that exceeded the capacity of my Jet mini-lathe.   Being frugal (cheap!) I wondered if I could build my own extension instead of buying a $100 plus factory cast iron model.   I saw on the interweb a few other's had built their own so I decided to give it a try.   Here is my version

Elaborate and, I'm sure satisfying.  Back years ago helped an architectural woodworker turn 6' and 8' columns on an old Delta (countershafted)  with the tailstock mounted to a bench across the floor.  Interval was preserved by 2X6s, which also served to mount the wooden toolrest.  
Sort of an early Conover.  Two points guarantee a straight line.  Rest is preserving the relationship.

[Stwood_]

Looks great.

Years ago I stretched my old craftsman 36" (Emerson) round tube to 48 " turning length. I had a staircase baluster job to do and got it done.

[Arlin Eastman]

I like it a lot.  I wonder if I can do it with my PM3520b since I have several projects that are 22" longer then my lathe.

I do not know if you addressed it but can the tool rest or tailstock lock on tight to the bottom of the wood?  I might add some 1/4" runners on the bottom to make sure for my project.

I will save this so I can use it later or get with you later.

[toolmiser]

I also stretched an older Rockwell 4 speed lathe with angle iron to make a couple newel posts. I never drilled into the lathe but into the bed. Part of the post was to be left square, and to cut down on vibration, I fastened it also to a post supporting a beam in our house. I was kind of glad when that turning was done. Kind of nerve racking knowing part was square and I needed to stay away from it. Because it was 4" square, it also was like a blower moving dust all over the place.

Maybe it isn't that great for every day use, but it worked for a two time project. Since my newel post was extra long I was able to secure it to a couple floor joists in the basement. That isn't ever going to move, and I enjoy showing people that also.

[Splinter Puller]

I like it a lot.  I wonder if I can do it with my PM3520b since I have several projects that are 22" longer then my lathe.

I do not know if you addressed it but can the tool rest or tailstock lock on tight to the bottom of the wood?  I might add some 1/4" runners on the bottom to make sure for my project.

I will save this so I can use it later or get with you later.

I used hard maple and the tail stock and tool rest clamps hold tight without denting the wood or creeping.

[Jack01]

I wanted to turn a few Christmas present projects that exceeded the capacity of my Jet mini-lathe.   Being frugal (cheap!) I wondered if I could build my own extension instead of buying a $100 plus factory cast iron model.   I saw on the interweb a few other's had built their own so I decided to give it a try.   Here is my version



I measured the cast iron surfaces on my lathe and found they were 1-1/2" wide x 5/8" deep.   I used 1-1/2" angle iron to form the extension surfaces and added maple fillers below to bring the thickness up to 5/8" to match the lathe cast iron.  The Maple has proven hard enough to hold the tail stock and tool rest clamps just fine.     The wooden block on the attachment end is sized so that it's bottom rests on the machined "lip" on the end of the lathe.  This keeps the angle iron surfaces in perfect alignment with the surface of the cast iron.



To hold the wooden extension to the lathe I used threaded rod.   Two 3/8" rods at the top provide tension and hold the extension tight to the lathe while resisting downward forces...  I drilled new holes closer to the top of the lathe then the existing metric holes in the lathe to provide this tension support nearer the top where it's needed.



Near the bottom I drilled and tapped a 5/16" hole for a single threaded rod which supports the bottom of the extension and pulls the extension down into two leveling "gibs".  These gibs are 3/8" bolts in tapped holes and are adjusted in or out to raise or lower the end of the extension to align the upper surface parallel with the existing lathe.





Once the threaded rods are adjusted and tensioned, the lathe extension proved solid and steady.    It works great and the total cost was $10 or less for the threaded rod and angle iron scraps.  The savings might go to a Lathe upgrade if I find myself turning longer items more often.   

Excellent

[Paul K. Murphy]

Looks great. Good idea.

[Grey Mountain]

I've never tried to build an extension for any of my lathes; however, I am a great believer in shop-built over store-bought if possible - not only because of the cost savings, but also just the challenge to see if I can do it.
My first sharpening setup was an old 50-cycle twin shaft 3400 rpm washing machine motor. Tool rest for that was made from 2X4s . That was about 40 years ago. I have long since graduated to better grinders; however, I still use that old motor with buffing pads on each end.
Also built my first chuck by taking a 1-8 nut and epoxying it into a piece of plywood.
I cloned the Wolverine jigs as well.
Half the fun, again, is the challenge just to see if it can be done.
Great job on the extension!

GM, maker of peethticks.

[crokett™]

that looks great! well done and the adjustment bolts were a very clever idea.