How to clamp something with a moulding on one side...
#11
Well, I did it again...I was suppose to only route both side edges and the front edge of the top of my dresser, but I got into a routine and did the back edge as well. Thus, I'll have to cut off about 3/4" and glue on a matching strip. I'll need to get a new piece of wood though as I don't have any that match the grain and color. That'll be in the next few days.

In the meantime, I've been thinking of ways I could glue the strip on, because the cove profile leaves only about 3/16" of flat surface for the clamp to grab onto, and that probably wouldn't be strong enough to withstand clamping pressure (Jatoba notwithstanding). What's the best way to clamp on a repair strip in this type of situation?
Near future projects:

-Curly Maple display case
-Jatoba and Quilted Maple dresser
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#12
Can you glue and nail it on since it's the back edge?
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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#13
Painter’s tape? ....
Gary

Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
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#14
There has to be some way where I can use a standard clamp, right? I'd rather just use glue instead of any fasteners so I can manipulate the piece and line it up perfectly with the board it's being glued to...that way there will be less need for sanding later.


At first I was thinking of cutting a piece of moulding that would sit in the cove and act like a clamp block. Would that work?
Near future projects:

-Curly Maple display case
-Jatoba and Quilted Maple dresser
Reply
#15
Make a caul in the mating shape from a softwood, pine perhaps. Use that to create even clamping force.

Can also use a layer of closed cell foam like insulation board .

Mix up bondo into plastic bag and place on molding to get shape, harden, shape back face flat with rasp.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#16
I would get a piece of thick scrap a little longer and a few inches wider than the two pieces you want to join. Make sure it has a straight edge and fasten a fence to that edge. Attach a few small blocks along the face of the scrap piece. They can be placed at strategic locations and further away from the fence than the width of the pieces you want to join. Put the pieces on with the profiled edge against the fence and use wedges against the blocks to hold the work while the glues sets. You'll need some wax or plastic film to keep any glue from squeezing out and bonding the work to the clamping board.

Good luck.
John
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#17
Need a mirror image not always easy to do.

3/16" edge use a long caul it won't damage it.

But in this case I would

Glue
Screw
Plane flat

Extend that top out 1" or so to account for baseboard trim.
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#18
I'll probably combine the mating shape caul idea with the long caul idea...I'll put the mating piece in and then put a long caul over that for the clamp to grab.
Near future projects:

-Curly Maple display case
-Jatoba and Quilted Maple dresser
Reply
#19
(12-09-2018, 09:45 PM)KingwoodFan1989 Wrote: At first I was thinking of cutting a piece of moulding that would sit in the cove and act like a clamp block. Would that work?


Cut out several pieces the exact opposite, as close as you can get, with the bandsaw.
Don't have to be exact, just a couple of pressure points that would touch on each clamping block.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#20
Rip off a little bit of the front, moulded edge to get flat edge for clamping
glue a wider strip to the back
reroute the front edge

This is assuming it is solid wood top.
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