Craftsman Table Saw Suggestions

[pgriff]

I recently acquired my father's old Craftsman model 103.22160 table saw and would like to get it back up and running. I also have an identical spare parts saw. The only table saw I have ever used is the Sawstop in my local adult school woodworking class. I am left handed and the Sawstop always seems to be backwards to me.
My questions:
1. Does anyone know of a guide to restore this saw? I did a google search but did not find anything to help getting anything like the arbor and trunions in proper working order. Just painting and cosmetics. My dad never had a new or shiny tool, so this one will retain its patina as a tribute to him.
2. Right now it seems comfortable for me to have my workpiece to the right of the blade and the cutoff on the left. Is this correct for left hand operation?
3. Can I bolt the 2 saws together to make a larger working surface?  I do not have any wings or extensions.
I would appreciate any comments or suggestions other than "scrap it". Thanks.

[brianwelch]

I recently acquired my father's old Craftsman model 103.22160 table saw and would like to get it back up and running. I also have an identical spare parts saw. The only table saw I have ever used is the Sawstop in my local adult school woodworking class. I am left handed and the Sawstop always seems to be backwards to me.
My questions:
1. Does anyone know of a guide to restore this saw? I did a google search but did not find anything to help getting anything like the arbor and trunions in proper working order. Just painting and cosmetics. My dad never had a new or shiny tool, so this one will retain its patina as a tribute to him.
2. Right now it seems comfortable for me to have my workpiece to the right of the blade and the cutoff on the left. Is this correct for left hand operation?
3. Can I bolt the 2 saws together to make a larger working surface?  I do not have any wings or extensions.
I would appreciate any comments or suggestions other than "scrap it". Thanks.

Look into joining OWWM and vintagemachinery.org 
The following link to the manual might give you a good start:

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=4783

http://www.owwm.org/

[pgriff]

Thanks for the suggestions. According to the manual, the arbor bearings are sealed and lubed for life. My arbor is very stiff and does not rotate easily. Any suggestions for fixing this, or do I search for a new one?

[jteneyck]

I recently acquired my father's old Craftsman model 103.22160 table saw and would like to get it back up and running. I also have an identical spare parts saw. The only table saw I have ever used is the Sawstop in my local adult school woodworking class. I am left handed and the Sawstop always seems to be backwards to me.
My questions:
1. Does anyone know of a guide to restore this saw? I did a google search but did not find anything to help getting anything like the arbor and trunions in proper working order. Just painting and cosmetics. My dad never had a new or shiny tool, so this one will retain its patina as a tribute to him.
2. Right now it seems comfortable for me to have my workpiece to the right of the blade and the cutoff on the left. Is this correct for left hand operation?
3. Can I bolt the 2 saws together to make a larger working surface?  I do not have any wings or extensions.
I would appreciate any comments or suggestions other than "scrap it". Thanks.

Makes sense to me that you are comfortable using the miter gage on the right side of the blade, since I'm right handed and prefer it on the left.  But you often have to work on the "opposite" side, too, depending upon the specific operation so keep that in mind.  The blade tilts to the left on your saw, at least it does if it's like mine, so that means you normally would want the work piece on the right.  

Most table saws have the rip fence predominately on the right side of the blade, and the Craftsman is no different.  That may or may not feel comfortable to you, but that's the way they are.  

You should be able to bolt those two saws together.  I have my Craftsman bolted to a Unisaw with one large fence across the front of both and like that arrangement a lot.  You may want to look for set of wings and put one on each side, too, as even combined it still won't be very wide.  With the saws bolted together you could move the rip fence to be predominately on the left side if that's more comfortable for you.  However, the blade tilts to the left and you normally want the workpiece to the right of the blade in that situation.  

John

[fishhh4]

Everything work as it should? Then I (that's me) would put a new belt on it. Start looking for a serviceable quality fence for a good price. One with rails that would extend out into wings I would construct myself. Hobby board from Borg of melamine with a frame under it. Cast iron is easy to drill,  just take your time. That owners manual states 1/2 hp with a 3/4 hp upgrade possible. Not going to rip thick hardwood with that. A good Thin kerf 8" blade would help. Don't know if you can upgrade motor much more. Might??? 
Or just stick a blade on it and cut. Chose then what coarse you will take.

[fishhh4]

Thanks for the suggestions. According to the manual, the arbor bearings are sealed and lubed for life. My arbor is very stiff and does not rotate easily. Any suggestions for fixing this, or do I search for a new one?

Pretty sure that is a King Seeley designed manufactured saw. Probably not to hard to change out the bearing. You have two chances as I see it.

I would not bolt that other top to it ...or whole saw. That's just me. ymmv
What size is the arbor? Hopefully 5/8".

[dg152]

I don't believe it's possible to connect the 2 saws together. However, keep looking on craigslist for Craftsman table saw extensions. Stay with the cast iron extensions. They are much more stable than the stamped steel and should be drilled to match your saw table top.

I've never overhauled a Craftsman table saw but they're not terribly complicated. If you arbor is not turning smoothly, I would research whether the bearings can be pressed out and replaced. My arbor spun quite freely. Once, when the drive belt broke, it took at least a minute for the saw to come to a stop. Otherwise, cleaning the tilt and rise/lower gears is fairly straight forward and somewhat tedious. Use an all-purpose grease to lube the gears.

Motor size is probably limited to 1-1/2 hp. Sears advertised these things as having 1-1/2 hp but I'm not sure how accurate their claims were. Again, I'd watch craigslist for 1 to 1-1/2 hp motors or take a look at Harbor Freight. Then invest in one of those link-style drive belts. It will make your saw run so much more smoothly.

My second table saw was a cast-iron Craftsman. I made a lot of saw dust with mine. It didn't cut hardwoods as quickly as my 3 hp SawStop but it's still an excellent small table saw. As others have suggested installed a better fence and a quality saw blade. Keep the internals clean and lubed. With proper care you should be able to pass it on to your kids.

[MarkSingleton]

They can do a lot of work. I use mine all the time. Sure, I want ( and will get someday ) a SawStop.

 But my 1957 Sears Craftsman, though three years older than I am, just keeps on going.
 This is another case where the older ones are the better ones.  I found it on craigslist as I 
was putting my shop together. I call it my "bridge saw" to get me from no saw at all to the one
I will get some day...

 It came with a Delta universal table saw fence. Almost immediately I added 
 a link drive belt, zero clearance table insert, etc. All easily
done over time and/or as funds allow.  I also mounted it on a rolling plywood base with some minor
dust collection capability. 

 Watched craigslist and found a very cheap "donor" saw made in the same era and picked it up.
Thus, table extensions, spare pulleys, etc. are in inventory.  

 When the time comes, and it will, I will be able to sell the whole package to the next guy.

 Good on you for keeping Dads' saw. It will not let you down with enough love and care.

   

[p_leyden]

I have restored 3 craftsman 8" saws identical to yours. The problem with this saw is the arbor bearing! The bearing is not your average bearing - it is a unit bearing. If you check the manual for the saw and the parts list you will see that there is one part number for the arbor assembly. The arbor shaft and the bearings are one assembly.(The bearing, also known as a water pump bearing) The part is no longer available.
All the saws I restored luckily had a good arbor assembly. The saw I was working on recently the assembly was NG.the saw is 90% finished, and if I don't find a NOS part it may never get finished. If you are interested in possible solutions to this problem I'll be glad to discuss
them with you - call me at 631-226-8754
Peter Leyden

[pgriff]

The arbor and bearing on my dad’s saw is 1/2” diameter and shot. The parts saw arbor appears to be in much better condition, but the rest of the saw is grungier. Sounds like I need to do an inspection on both of the saws to see if there are enough parts to make one good one. Just noticed that the parts saw came with a 40 tooth, 8” carbide blade and a dado blade. Current motor is a 1/2 hp, 3450 rpm motor. Will keep my eye out for cast iron extensions.