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Location: Texas
If the bearings are tighter than normal, I would remove them, then remove the metal or rubber seals and soak them in mineral spirits overnight. The grease may have dried.
Once you have them running smoothly (Keep them spotless- no dust or debris) spin them and if you feel any roughness, you might as well replace them- just get the number off of the bearings.
Lightly grease them (Don't pack them full), and you're good to go.
You may have to press them on and off. I have yet to find a bearing that couldn't be replaced, but then I haven't done them all either.
Right or left- what ever you're comfortable with. I'm a bit ambidextrous, so it doesn't matter to me. I think anyone can switch and after a while adapt just fine.
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Location: Missouri
(12-27-2018, 08:45 PM)p_leyden Wrote: I have restored 3 craftsman 8" saws identical to yours. The problem with this saw is the arbor bearing! The bearing is not your average bearing - it is a unit bearing. If you check the manual for the saw and the parts list you will see that there is one part number for the arbor assembly. The arbor shaft and the bearings are one assembly.(The bearing, also known as a water pump bearing) The part is no longer available.
All the saws I restored luckily had a good arbor assembly. The saw I was working on recently the assembly was NG.the saw is 90% finished, and if I don't find a NOS part it may never get finished. If you are interested in possible solutions to this problem I'll be glad to discuss
them with you - call me at 631-226-8754
Peter Leyden
I found this on the sears website. Read where the bearings should be available locally.
Steve
Q:
Part sizes for product # 10322160.
A:
Thank you for you question on the old table saw.
The STD328012 is a 2" drive pulley with a 5/8 bore for use with a 4L belt and has a 3/16 keyway.
The
38619 is the
arbor and bearing assembly.
I do not know if you are referring to the bearings inside of the arbor or the arbor shaft.
The arbor bearing and shaft are all included with the arbor assembly.
If you need bearings for the arbor shaft the bearing number will be on the side of the bearing and you should be able to get it locally.
Please let me know what information you need.
Sam A.
Sam A -
Sears Technician
August 16, 2011
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-n...44000.html
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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Location: Missouri
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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Location: Fairfax, VA
I had one of those. Gave it to my brother some time back. You can fit a 9" blade on it, which makes it quite a bit more useful. The main problem with the saw is the top is appreciably shorter than the much more common 10" version, of which I have one as well. This makes fitting accessories (fences, etc) a bit problematic.
These are simple saws and there are plenty of used parts out there. Check out
BOYD. You will have to sign up for the website if you haven't already.
As far as bearings are concerned, check out
Accurate Bearings. They specialize in replacement bearings for old tools. Good people.
Good luck. PM me if you need any info.
chris
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Location: Northern Ohio
(12-27-2018, 02:52 PM)pgriff Wrote: I recently acquired my father's old Craftsman model 103.22160 table saw and would like to get it back up and running. I also have an identical spare parts saw. The only table saw I have ever used is the Sawstop in my local adult school woodworking class. I am left handed and the Sawstop always seems to be backwards to me.
My questions:
1. Does anyone know of a guide to restore this saw? I did a google search but did not find anything to help getting anything like the arbor and trunions in proper working order. Just painting and cosmetics. My dad never had a new or shiny tool, so this one will retain its patina as a tribute to him.
2. Right now it seems comfortable for me to have my workpiece to the right of the blade and the cutoff on the left. Is this correct for left hand operation?
3. Can I bolt the 2 saws together to make a larger working surface? I do not have any wings or extensions.
I would appreciate any comments or suggestions other than "scrap it". Thanks.
Check this YouTube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIivZsCVu9k
Posts: 6,318
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Location: Fairfax, VA
12-29-2018, 11:39 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-29-2018, 11:42 AM by doobes.)
(12-28-2018, 04:17 PM)Ohio Mike Wrote: Check this YouTube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIivZsCVu9k
H'mmm. Couple of things:
- Don't ever use a steel hammer to strike a piece of steel. Use brass or plastic faced hammer. Seriously. Lot's of opportunity for mayhem doing this.
- My inner bearing came off with just a little bit of heat from the propane torch. Doesn't need much. They are junk anyway so the heat is no issue.
- Always replace the woodruff keys. They act as your weak link and are designed to fail before anything else. If they have been abused in a prior life, their performance will be questionable.
- Don't ever drive a bearing on by hitting on the outer race. This transmits the striking force through the balls, which make point contact with the inner and outer races likely spalling the races and/or balls. If you have to drive the bearing, do so against the inner race.
- I installed my inner bearing by putting the shaft in the freezer and the bearing on top of an incandescent light bulb. It slides right on, but you can't dawdle.
- Get your replacement bearings from Accurate. They will offer you a selection of bearings and you can choose what quality you want.
Happy New Years!
chris
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Location: Marina del Rey
I wouldn't waste time with it. Get a used cabinet saw.
Wood is good.
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I inherited my father in law's early 70's Craftsman . The best upgrade I made is the PALS Alignment System to square the blade.
Mals
Mals
You can educate the ignorant - You can't fix stupid.
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The above advice is excellent but I'd do a couple things slightly different. I know link belts are the go-to and they are handy where there's little or not length adjustment or it's difficult to get a belt around two pulleys. For a contractor style saw I'd probably put an
AX or cogged belt on it. Cheaper than a link belt, doesn't take a set like a regular V belt and may run quieter. For lube on tilt and elevation mechanisms, some recommend a lube that won't collect saw dust in the teeth like oil or grease can. One recommendation is paste wax applied with a tooth brush. I used spray-on 'teflon' on a Griz cab saw and so far so good. I think lithium grease might be another good choice but no experience with that.
