Router lift or just start all over.
#11
Hey all,

For years I’ve wanted to build a router table. All this time, the only thing I’ve been using is a Porter Cable 690 bolted to the bottom of a scrap piece of MDF. It’s time for something better.
About 10 years or so ago I bought a new Hitachi M12V2 router. The price was too good to pass up. My plan was to use it in the future, yet to be built, router table. Here we are 10 years later, the router is still in the box, and I’m getting serious about it Either building a router table or building it into the wing of my table saw. I’ve did a little research and it looks like router lifts for the Hitachi are few and far between. Jessem makes a Rout-R-Lift II version and I think maybe you can get a Router Raizer to work. There may be more but I’m not sure. It also looks like some people do a DIY lift by removing the springs and make an extension to use the threads on the router itself as a lift.  

Since I bought the Hitachi, there are so many new choices, in both routers and lifts out there. So here’s my dilemma. Do I……

A. Buy a special router lift for the Hitachi and hope for the best.
B. Buy a more universal lift that works with the Porter Cable 690 and sell the Hitachi.
C. Scrap it all and start all over with a new router (Bosch etc.) and a lift that matches.
D. Forgo a separate lift and just modify the Hitachi height adjustment to work in a table.


So, what do you think? Opinions and experience welcome.
Telling a man he has too many tools,
is like telling a woman she has too many shoes.
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#12
I have the same vintage Hitachi. I built my first router table and used a PC690. The only height adjustment was the adjustment on the actual PC690 base.

I've since purchased two router lifts, a Woodpecker PRL-V2 and a Jessum Master Lift-II.

Both of these make using the router table much easier for bit changes and fine height adjustment. The PRL2 has been back to Woodpeckers for repair (free of charge), the fine adjust gearing failed.

I wouldn't sell the Hitachi as there are times you still need a router for manual use and what it will fetch used makes it more convenient t hang on to.
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#13
Manhandling a 3.25 HP router for hand-held work would not be my first choice, so I'd hang on to the router that can go hand-held.  For me, that would be the 690.  I have a 690 that was my first router.

The 690 would not be my first choice for a table-mounted machine.  I'd be looking for more power that the larger Hitachi could deliver.

That leaves the Hitachi either in the new table, or sold, if one wants a new machine.  So then it becomes a cost-benefit drill.  For my use, I couldn't see enough benefit to buying a big router AND a new lift, so I bought the large Triton and have it mounted in my new table.

Many others want/have a router lift holding the large router; it's personal preference and neither way is wrong over the other.

In your position, I'd try the Hitachi with the mod to allow it to be used without a lift.   If it doesn't do well, then do something else.  THere's nothing that says you can't reconfigure later.
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#14
bought the same router, but bought the woodpecker lift for it at the same time.  Still going strong...
"Oh. Um, l-- look, i-- i-- if we built this large wooden badger" ~ Sir Bedevere
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#15
I have the same hitachi router mounted in the Lee Valley table. It's a great router, but I'm not a huge fan of the LV height adjustment mechanism. I *think* there is a screw type adjustment of some sort that works with the hitachi router. It worked with an insert plate so I couldn't make the change with the LV system or I would have long ago. I have two router tables set-up right now, and I can't tell you how handy it is sometimes to have 2 routers set up. Whatever you do, I wouldn't sell the hitachi and if you don't use it in your new table, keep it in your current set-up for the next time you do rails and stiles, or whatnot. So, to answer your question directly, I would probably do C - and also keep your old rig.

EDIT: I just went and looked, and the unit I was thinking of is called a router raizer. It's $100-ish. Now I remember why I didn't get one. At that price, your 1/3 to 1/2 the way to a proper router lift. My answer above stands.
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#16
Terry, just to give a contrary view,  I built a router table a long time ago, and use it from time to time.  I guess I don't use it enough to think a lift would be worth the price.  I just adjust the depth stop  -  then lift up till it hits the depth stop.  For the few occasions that I wanted to sneak up on a particular height,  I made a simple bridge  that I can place on the top of the shelf immediately below the router, with a screw adjustment that in essence works as a jack against the bottom of the router to lift it up or down as I adjust the screw.  Sometimes I spend far more time making a jig or fixture than I spend using it, this is one of the few times that I made a cheap and dirty DIY fixture, and it does exactly what I need.
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#17
Woodpecker PRL (either 1 or 2, pick your poison) mated with a PC 7518. Had this combo for 15+ years now with absolutely no problems whatsoever. I would consider building the router table (either one) that Norm featured on the NYW. Video and plans probably still available.

Doug
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#18
Thanks all.  A little more research on the Hitachi shows people removing the springs and just using the height adjustment screw built into the router. I can do that from below, or drill a hole and access the height adjustment from the top.  Since it's easy to try, I think I'll give this a try first.

If down the road I'm not happy, then it's back to the drawing board.
Telling a man he has too many tools,
is like telling a woman she has too many shoes.
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#19
My M12V2 is in a router table unmodified at the moment, and while a little less convenient, it works fine. I originally removed the springs, but put them back in to use it hand-held when my other routers were busy.

I don't use a router table enough that it's worth it to me getting a router lift, and if you have waited this long, it might not be worth it for you either.

This router does take longer for precise depth adjustment than some. But most settings are quick because they don't need very high precision, and the few that do don't slow me down all that much
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#20
I have had a 3-1/2 hp Stanley router in a table for decades and have never once felt I needed a router lift.
Wood is good. 
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