Cutting big slab

[Cooler]

Make a 1/4” deep cut on each end of the slab to mark the location of the cut. That will give you an indicator mark on both the top and the bottom of the slab.

Borrow, rent, or buy a track saw. Use the end marks for alignment of the track, Make your cut.

Film over the slab and use the end marks to align the track. Make your cut.

If you work very carefully you should get a very good alignment on the top and bottom cuts.

A Festool 55 will cut about 2-1/4” deep; the 75 will cut about 2-3/4” deep. So no matter, you will have to make two cuts.

[ez-duzit]

...A Festool... 75 will cut about 2-3/4” deep...

Finish with a hand saw and a plane.

[ianab]

Clamp a straight edge to it and saw one side to 2" or whatever your saw will handle. Then flip over on your sawhorses and spend couple of minutes getting your straight edge set up to match on the other side, and complete the cut from there. You will have to joint the edges before you reglue them anyway, so if the cuts are not perfectly aligned, doesn't matter. 

Now jointing a board like that to reglue is it's own challenge. I have a big router bridge with enough height to use as an edge jointer, as well as face jointer / planer.  When slabs get big like that it gets easier to clamp down the wood, and move the tool (router bit on rails) 

Then again I could also rip it in 1/2 with a sawmill...

[OneStaple]

Thanks for the ideas, all!

One of those 16-5/16" Makita saws would be perfect! But geez, are they pricey. I'm not sure I can justify buying one, as it's not something I'd need regularly. I live outside DC, so buying/reselling on Craigslist is an option, assuming one appears at a reasonable price. Of course, at that point, renting one would probably be just as easy unless I found a screaming deal on craigslist. My concern with renting is that the blade that comes with it would be all beat to death.

I have a 7-1/4" worm-drive Makita that can cut about 2.5". Finishing with a hand saw might be the easiest path forward, although it'd be a workout still. Or doing a second cut from the back would also be an option.

A chainsaw is another option, but that'd make a significantly bigger kerf.

Now jointing a board like that to reglue is it's own challenge. I have a big router bridge with enough height to use as an edge jointer, as well as face jointer / planer. When slabs get big like that it gets easier to clamp down the wood, and move the tool (router bit on rails)

I'll certainly need to flatten the faces with a router sled (yet to be built). Guess it'll have to be a big one! Jointing the edges will certainly be a challenge. I like the router sled idea, but in my very limited use of (smaller) router sleds, the process didn't really leave a glue-ready surface. I was just using a 1/2" straight bit, so perhaps some of the other flattening bits that I've seen recommended ($$$) would do better.

I also have a 12" jointer with a (roughly) 6' bed, but man-handling those slabs across it would be challenging.

I'll try to get some pictures as I go through this process, but I won't be able to pick up the slab for another month.

Thanks!
Tyler

[Bob10]

Thanks for the ideas, all!

One of those 16-5/16" Makita saws would be perfect!  But geez, are they pricey.  I'm not sure I can justify buying one, as it's not something I'd need regularly.  I live outside DC, so buying/reselling on Craigslist is an option, assuming one appears at a reasonable price.  Of course, at that point, renting one would probably be just as easy unless I found a screaming deal on craigslist.  My concern with renting is that the blade that comes with it would be all beat to death.

I have a 7-1/4" worm-drive Makita that can cut about 2.5".  Finishing with a hand saw might be the easiest path forward, although it'd be a workout still.  Or doing a second cut from the back would also be an option.

A chainsaw is another option, but that'd make a significantly bigger kerf.


I'll certainly need to flatten the faces with a router sled (yet to be built).  Guess it'll have to be a big one!  Jointing the edges will certainly be a challenge.  I like the router sled idea, but in my very limited use of (smaller) router sleds, the process didn't really leave a glue-ready surface.  I was just using a 1/2" straight bit, so perhaps some of the other flattening bits that I've seen recommended ($$$) would do better.

I also have a 12" jointer with a (roughly) 6' bed, but man-handling those slabs across it would be challenging.

I'll try to get some pictures as I go through this process, but I won't be able to pick up the slab for another month.

Thanks!
Tyler

I picked up my Makita on CL for $85

[Bob10]

$50 You might even have the parts that are missing


https://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/d/c...44362.html

[Hank Knight]

As others have said, get a big saw.

IMG_0175 by Hank Knight, on Flickr

IMG_0176 by Hank Knight, on Flickr

[Cooler]

I’m sorry, but the hand saw does not make sense to me. If you mark the cut location at each end with a jig saw and align your track with the same side of the jig saw cut, you will get a better cut with a lot less work. If you work carefully, you might only need to sand, not plane.

I agree that a hand saw might make sense for a cut made with a circular saw, but if you have a Festool, it does not.

I definitely would not use a hand saw if I had a track saw at my disposal.

[OneStaple]

$50 You might even have the parts that are missing

https://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/d/c...44362.html

Thanks for the link. Assuming I can find replacement parts and it's in decent shape, that might be worth picking up. Do you know anything about these, such as likely failure points or "gotchas"? Some quick research suggests it takes a 11-5/8" blade (rather than 12") with a diamond arbor, which could be an issue.

As others have said, get a big saw.

Hank, those are some great pictures. That saw looks massive!

I’m sorry, but the hand saw does not make sense to me. If you mark the cut location at each end with a jig saw and align your track with the same side of the jig saw cut, you will get a better cut with a lot less work. If you work carefully, you might only need to sand, not plane.

I agree that a hand saw might make sense for a cut made with a circular saw, but if you have a Festool, it does not.

I definitely would not use a hand saw if I had a track saw at my disposal.

The problem is that I don't have a track saw at my disposal. I've heard wonderful things about Festool, but never had the privilege of owning something by them. I'm likely limited to my current circular saw (7-1/4"), a hand saw, and anything that I might be able to pick up/rent for relatively cheap, such as the skilsaw linked by Bob.

Thanks,
Tyler

[Bob10]

Thanks for the link.  Assuming I can find replacement parts and it's in decent shape, that might be worth picking up.  Do you know anything about these, such as likely failure points or "gotchas"?  Some quick research suggests it takes a 11-5/8" blade (rather than 12") with a diamond arbor, which could be an issue.


Hank, those are some great pictures.  That saw looks massive!


The problem is that I don't have a track saw at my disposal.  I've heard wonderful things about Festool, but never had the privilege of owning something by them.  I'm likely limited to my current circular saw (7-1/4"), a hand saw, and anything that I might be able to pick up/rent for relatively cheap, such as the skilsaw linked by Bob.

Thanks,
Tyler

Do you have a Skilsaw now?  It looks to be the same parts the slotted washer and left hand thread bolt.  i would bet if you don't have one you know someone that does or you can pick up one from HD on the way take them back if they don't work or the deal goes south