Can MC Aluminum Armored Cable Be Used?
#18
(01-22-2019, 11:00 AM)GDay Wrote: I wish I had an Electrical Inspector to ask. I am rural and have no codes to adhere to besides NEMA. I just want to be sure my projects conform and are safe. I thank everyone for taking the time to help me do it right!

All my wire is labeled THHN THWN. I have always called it THHN. I will attach picture of the patio.


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#19
(01-22-2019, 07:35 AM)GDay Wrote: I have a Cedar Patio Cover attached to my house and tied into the roof. It is exposed beam and columns. I would consider it a dry location but in really bad storms some rain can blow into areas with no house walls to protect it.

Some NEC Article 100 definitions:

Location, Damp. Locations protected from weather and
not subject to saturation with water or other liquids but
subject to moderate degrees of moisture. Examples of such
locations include partially protected locations under canopies,
marquees, roofed open porches, and like locations,
and interior locations subject to moderate degrees of moisture,
such as some basements, some barns, and some coldstorage
warehouses.

Location, Dry. A location not normally subject to dampness
or wetness. A location classified as dry may be temporarily
subject to dampness or wetness, as in the case of a
building under construction.

Location, Wet. Installations underground or in concrete
slabs or masonry in direct contact with the earth; in locations
subject to saturation with water or other liquids, such
as vehicle washing areas; and in unprotected locations exposed
to weather.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#20
(01-22-2019, 11:24 AM)jvanbrecht Wrote: In the OPs case, I would actually use something like the Liquid Tight conduit and fittings from just the exterior wall to the junciton boxes for the fans and whatever else he wants, and use the armored cable to route the wires within the house (I am guessing from the breaker box).  The outside run should be on it's own circuit, and at a minimum have a GFCI breaker.

I have a panel/ breaker panel mounted on the outside wall for all the exterior wiring. I will be using GFCI breakers in it.
Gary
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#21
(01-22-2019, 11:00 AM)GDay Wrote: I wish I had an Electrical Inspector to ask. I am rural and have no codes to adhere to besides NEMA. I just want to be sure my projects conform and are safe. I thank everyone for taking the time to help me do it right!

Oh in that case just staple extension cords to the underside of the roof.
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#22
(01-22-2019, 12:13 PM)Phil Thien Wrote: Oh in that case just staple extension cords to the underside of the roof.
 I didn’t say I wanted to be like my neighbors! 
Big Grin
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#23
(01-22-2019, 12:49 PM)GDay Wrote:  I didn’t say I wanted to be like my neighbors! 
Big Grin


Laugh
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#24
(01-22-2019, 01:50 PM)jvanbrecht Wrote: Do what I do. You pay a little extra than the borg stores.  Buy the supplies from an electrical supply store, and be friendly to the staff there.  9 times out of 10 (for me at least), they are happy to oblige with the information.  That other time is a guy who says if you are asking these questions, I am not going to sell you 4 feet of 000 service wire...  I was replacing my breaker panal which is a pushmatic fire hazard from the 60s and (maybe I did.. maybe I didn't.. pull the meter to kill power to the house), I needed the wire to replace the existing wire which was half a foot too short, old panel the service wire came into the center of the box, new panel was above or below, and I was not about to pigtail the service wires.  Of course this was almost 10 years ago (whats the statute of limitations on messing with a meter box.. it is illegal in MD, probably elsewhere too)
You can pull the meter here as long as you call the power company to retag it. I had a licencensed electrician that cut the metal loop that the tag goes through so it was not obvious. A few days later they showed up and retaged it through another small hole. They know when u pull a Smart Meter.
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