Posts: 286
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2012
We have some newish metal drawer pulls—oh so shiney gold. They have a fancy back plate and hinged handle.
What would you spray them with to make them darker, older looking.
Thanks for your advice.
Posts: 14,642
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
Location: Oklahoma
01-26-2019, 01:50 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-26-2019, 01:51 PM by MsNomer.)
Are they solid brass? If so, make sure there’s no lacquer, then hit with EZ-Off.
Carolyn
Trip Blog for Twelve Countries: [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]
"It's good to know, but it's better to understand." Auze Jackson
Posts: 13,412
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
Gun blue might work. I use it to blacken parts and tools I machine.
Like this square socket.
Just blacken and then steel wool for a flat and worn finish.
Posts: 286
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2012
We found something, so will let others know. It’s a rattle-can. Their website says:
Mohawk TONE FINISH TONER. Finely ground, non-fading pigments for color repairs that last. Available in a wide variety of wood finishing shades. Used throughout the industry for quick efficient professional touch-up. Adapts to various methods so as to blend in spot repairs. Adjustment of sheen is achieved with a topcoat of clear lacquers available in gloss, satin, flat and dead flat.
Posts: 7,421
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2005
If the parts are brass plated there will be a waterborne lacquer coating. I doubt that most spray finishes will adhere. You will have to test.
A magnet will tell you if the parts are plated steel.
If they are plated steel, then there is the lacquer top coat, then a "flash" of brass and then nickel plating acting as a base coat.
The brass will both tarnish easily once the lacquer is removed and will rub off almost as easily as erasing a pencil.
If they are solid brass you can oxidize them. But then you will have to top coat them to end the oxidation process.
https://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/b...6jEALw_wcB
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Posts: 13,412
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
There is a process I have used to antique handles and such- depends on the colors you want- I wanted black rusted.
Sand the part well and clean with acetone. Spray dark brown and let that cure (about 5 days), then spray with black and let that cure a week or two. Then lightly sand spots (200 grit or even better- steel wool) until you break through the black paint and see the brown. Sand only the spots you want to look brown/rusty- soften the surface with steel wool. Then clear coat with a satin or gloss- which ever final appearance you like.
Posts: 1,029
Threads: 3
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: N. Cincy inside the loop
Carolyn (MsNomer) .... Welcome back. Good to hear from you again.
Posts: 14,642
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
Location: Oklahoma
(01-29-2019, 11:28 PM)wood2woodknot Wrote: Carolyn (MsNomer) .... Welcome back. Good to hear from you again.
Glad to be back. Wasn’t my doing—there was a glitch in my log-in and I had no way to communicate til someone contacted me.
Carolyn
Trip Blog for Twelve Countries: [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]
"It's good to know, but it's better to understand." Auze Jackson