Dishwasher Diagnosing
#11
Question 
Hi Folks,

I'm reasonably sure the water valve has failed, but I'm still a little confused.  

I don't have any resistance or continuity between the two poles.  I understand this means it has failed.  However, it will let water in when I manually turn the timer.  Does this mean the water valve is "normally open" and needs power to close?  

Thanks,
Mark
Mark in Sugar Land, TX
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#12
(01-29-2019, 09:51 PM)MarkSLSmith Wrote: Hi Folks,

I'm reasonably sure the water valve has failed, but I'm still a little confused.  

I don't have any resistance or continuity between the two poles.  I understand this means it has failed.  However, it will let water in when I manually turn the timer.  Does this mean the water valve is "normally open" and needs power to close?  

Thanks,
Mark

If it lets water in when you manually turn the timer, the water vale is working.  Water valves are normally closed as a power failure would let the water run continuously .   Does the timer run when you start a wash cycle ?   Try turning the timer to let water in for a little bit, then turn to where the water shuts off and see if the timer runs the wash cycle. I am thinking timer may be bad .   Roly
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#13
(01-29-2019, 11:13 PM)Roly Wrote: If it lets water in when you manually turn the timer, the water vale is working.  Water valves are normally closed as a power failure would let the water run continuously .   Does the timer run when you start a wash cycle ?   Try turning the timer to let water in for a little bit, then turn to where the water shuts off and see if the timer runs the wash cycle. I am thinking timer may be bad .   Roly

With reference to the test of manually turning the timer, that's what I thought also - the water valve must be working.  But then I saw a reference on the internet about the resistance check, and valve seemed to fail the test.  Is there a sure fire way to make sure the water valve is ok?  

When the dishwasher has water at the appropriate level, the motor is completely inactive. 

Mark
Mark in Sugar Land, TX
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#14
(01-30-2019, 07:36 AM)MarkSLSmith Wrote: With reference to the test of manually turning the timer, that's what I thought also - the water valve must be working.  But then I saw a reference on the internet about the resistance check, and valve seemed to fail the test.  Is there a sure fire way to make sure the water valve is ok?  

When the dishwasher has water at the appropriate level, the motor is completely inactive. 

Mark

You just did, it worked when you turned the timer which just switches the electric to it.   What are you using to read the resistance with ?   When the water is at the correct level and the motor is not running try turning the timer forward and see if the motor starts.   Roly
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#15
(01-30-2019, 08:21 AM)Roly Wrote: You just did, it worked when you turned the timer which just switches the electric to it.   What are you using to read the resistance with ?   When the water is at the correct level and the motor is not running try turning the timer forward and see if the motor starts.   Roly

I was using an analogue multimeter.  I just thought of one thing; I recently changed the 9V battery, but maybe I need to change the other battery which is a AA battery.  So I might have been getting a false resistance test.  I'll check it tonight.  

The motor never starts anywhere in the timer sequence, and I know there was water at the correct level.  Is it possible that it is the motor and not the timer?  Either way sucks; timer is available but is $165.  Motor no longer available.

Mark
Mark in Sugar Land, TX
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#16
(01-30-2019, 12:15 PM)MarkSLSmith Wrote: I was using an analogue multimeter.  I just thought of one thing; I recently changed the 9V battery, but maybe I need to change the other battery which is a AA battery.  So I might have been getting a false resistance test.  I'll check it tonight.  

The motor never starts anywhere in the timer sequence, and I know there was water at the correct level.  Is it possible that it is the motor and not the timer?  Either way sucks; timer is available but is $165.  Motor no longer available.

Mark

 Sure it is possible. First check if the motor if the is getting voltage before spending a lot of money on it.    Check the meter on a known good outlet for voltage. On ohms touch the two probes together and see if it reads close to zero.   Be careful but check for voltage at the motor when the timer is in a position where it should be running.  Roly
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#17
Bad timer switch?


Al
I turn, therefore I am!
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#18
(02-03-2019, 03:55 PM)woodhead Wrote: Bad timer switch?


Al

Bingo!

Here's an update.  As noted above, my initial troubleshooting efforts were plagued by a malfunctioning multimeter.  I bought myself a new one.  

Checked the float switch, water intake valve, and motor relay.  All perfectly good.  

Took the timer off.  I had the wiring diagram so I knew which "switches" had some connection to the motor.  One of the motor "switches" never activated the continuity tester when rotating the timer.  I tried to take it apart.  That switch was covered in a black grease-like substance with some indication of overheating.  Unfortunately, the timer is configured as two springs above and below a central post.  Had I been able to access the lower leaf I probably could have just cleaned it off, but I swear there is no way to get to it.  I pried the springs out, cleaned both sides with a small diamond file, and tried to put it back together again.  The motor now runs, but it runs when it shouldn't which probably means I buggered up the springs too much.  However, it does pretty much establish the timer as the problem, which is definite progress.  

I ordered a used one to replace it.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Mark
Mark in Sugar Land, TX
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#19
If it had overheated, it would not of lasted anyway.   Good job you are on the right track.  Roly
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#20
(01-29-2019, 09:51 PM)MarkSLSmith Wrote: Hi Folks,

I'm reasonably sure the water valve has failed, but I'm still a little confused.  

I don't have any resistance or continuity between the two poles.  I understand this means it has failed.  However, it will let water in when I manually turn the timer.  Does this mean the water valve is "normally open" and needs power to close?  

Thanks,
Mark

Mission accomplished!  It has gone through one cycle with the replacement timer, and performed flawlessly.
Mark in Sugar Land, TX
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