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(03-14-2019, 06:46 PM)Scoony Wrote: I think I would try honing the low angle jack blade at 50 or 60 degrees.
This might deal with the tearout.
The honed bevels do not need to be wide, 1/32" would be plenty. (Easily removed).
No need to change the grind angle, just the honing.
best wishes,
David
Had a total of 4 dados to cut and it went quickly.
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I have used a double iron plane for this type of timber for 45 years.
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David
I do have an extra blade for the LA jack that has not seen the light of the shop for a few years. That blade has the suggested bevel on it already. Going to dust that off and give it a try.
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(03-15-2019, 01:40 PM)wmickley Wrote: I have used a double iron plane for this type of timber for 45 years.
I will also pull out a LN #4 and try that one and see what happens. I don't use that one much since my vintage #5 usually works so well. I know my irons were sharp.
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(03-15-2019, 02:35 PM)Scoony Wrote: I will also pull out a LN #4 and try that one and see what happens. I don't use that one much since my vintage #5 usually works so well. I know my irons were sharp.
The Lie Nielsen planes have a degenerate cap iron.
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(03-15-2019, 03:01 PM)wmickley Wrote: The Lie Nielsen planes have a degenerate cap iron.
Please excuse my ignorance. What do you mean by "degenerate cap iron"? All I have are either Miller Falls type 2s or Stanley war time ( type 17 ) planes. I just added Veritas or Hock irons to some of them.
Thank you.
BontzSawWorks.net
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Ron, your planes have cap irons that are closer to the traditional shape, which has rounded bevel meeting the plane iron at an angle in the 50 to 80 degree range.
The newer Lie Nielsen planes have an "improved chipbreaker" which has such a low angle that it effectiveness is compromised.
It is a little like the vestigial wings on an emu, not too good for flying.
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(03-16-2019, 12:13 PM)wmickley Wrote: Ron, your planes have cap irons that are closer to the traditional shape, which has rounded bevel meeting the plane iron at an angle in the 50 to 80 degree range.
The newer Lie Nielsen planes have an "improved chipbreaker" which has such a low angle that it effectiveness is compromised.
It is a little like the vestigial wings on an emu, not too good for flying.
I actually have the original old style chip breaker for that plane, but I currently have the new style on it. I have the Hock chip breakers on my Stanley planes and always though that they were better then the original Stanleys.
Well anyways, after trying a few things, I have come to the conclusion that the grain on this wood is either so interlocked or changing direction that hand planing it is not going to happen. I have never come across a wood as troubling to hand plane as this.
I did get it glued up today.
Next up is the inside dividers and door. Not sure if it will have a panel or glass. Probably make it a divided light door with 4 panes.
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Looking good!
I am reminded of some videos on Japanese Tansu making that I saw. They very much value figured mulberry as a decorative drawer-front wood. While I believe they did some dressing with planes, they also had an abrasive they used.
Chris
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It's easy to hone a small 45 degree (or steeper) bevel on the front of the L-N chip breaker.
Once that is done they work very well for me.
An ultra close c/b setting also works very well. Something like 4 to 8 thou".
Interested to hear how Scoony's experiment goes.
Best wishes,
David
