Design Help - Large Wall Hanging Thimble Case

[Gary™]

I'm making a new thimble case for the LOML with over 200 spaces in it. I'll be over 2' x 2'.

I was originally thinking of making it with two doors with glass inserts but that would hide the center column of thimbles.

If I elect to go with a single door so all thimbles are visible, what's the best way to hang the case on the wall so it wouldn't tilt when the door is opened and the center of gravity shifts. I don't want to drive screws through the case as I'm considering using a mirror behind the thimbles so drilling through a backing it isn't a great option.

[Large Wooden Badger]

have the glass slide up and down instead?

[Rob Young]

I'm making a new thimble case for the LOML with over 200 spaces in it.  I'll be over 2' x 2'.

I was originally thinking of making it with two doors with glass inserts but that would hide the center column of thimbles.  

If I elect to go with a single door so all thimbles are visible, what's the best way to hang the case on the wall so it wouldn't tilt when the door is opened and the center of gravity shifts.  I don't want to drive screws through the case as I'm considering using a mirror behind the thimbles so drilling through a backing it isn't a great option.

French cleat.  Inset the back a bit and the cleats will be hidden.

Possibly two cleats, one across top, one near bottom of case.

1/2" material would be sufficient. Maybe even 7/16" if you don't want a lot of extra depth to the case.

[fredhargis]

I like Rob's idea, pretty sure that's the approach I'd take.

[stav]

I may not get the terminology right, but could you make the doors so there no inside styles on them and the glass goes all the way to the center?  Or maybe glass only doors like they used to put on entertainment centers?

[Gary™]

have the glass slide up and down instead?

French cleat.  Inset the back a bit and the cleats will be hidden.

Possibly two cleats, one across top, one near bottom of case.

1/2" material would be sufficient. Maybe even 7/16" if you don't want a lot of extra depth to the case.

This has possibilities, I could make the lower cleat a little wider so it contacts the side of the case to act as a stop. Simply put the case on the cleats and slide it over till the side touched the lower cleat.

[DaveR1]

How are you mounting the thimbles? Are they going to sit on shelves or maybe over pegs?

[Gary™]

How are you mounting the thimbles? Are they going to sit on shelves or maybe over pegs?

In the current (now too small) case the thimbles just rest the dividers.  She sometimes puts other collectables in there so no pegs.   The small cavities are 1.5w x 1.5h x 1.5d;  the double high cavities are 1.5w x 3.25h x 1.5d.  Currently planning on 200 small and 21 large in the new design but the boss may change that.

Picture of the current walnut case below with plexiglass.  The new one will be curly maple, include a mirror, and use non-reflective glass.

   

[Cooler]

Hinge it from the top.  A couple of rare earth magnets to keep it closed.  Use a dowel to prop it open when loading.

Or.

Use a French cleat for the glass front panel and have it removeable.  That would make loading and moving the pieces easier.

[Dan Moening]

I may not get the terminology right, but could you make the doors so there no inside styles on them and the glass goes all the way to the center?  Or maybe glass only doors like they used to put on entertainment centers?

^Agree with this solution.

Bypass doors?

Something where they slide past each other such as this cabinet: