Hammer A3-31
#10
Something to add to the knowledge base regarding the A3-31.  I was using this machine in planer mode recently, and on a whim, I decided to experiment a little.  I sent various thickness short (maybe 8 - 10") scrap blocks thru the machine, just to see how they would fare.  This is something that I know would not work on my previous Delta 15".  I was pleasantly surprised that they came through intact with perfect surfaces, and no snipe.   Also using the dial indicator handwheel, I could make very small (and accurate) incremental changes in thickness without getting indentations from the serrated feed roller. (Sending such short stock through the planer is probably not recommended.)

After giving the above some thought, I decided to sell my drum sander.  The Hammer machine is faster and more accurate for precision thicknessing, which was the main use for the drum sander.

johnbarfielddesign.com
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#11
John, I think I've gone shorter than that!
Smile

[Image: ApothecaryChestWeekend7_html_729e8f63.jpg]

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But you are correct - the A3-31 has great precision.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#12
(03-22-2019, 11:06 AM)Derek Cohen Wrote: John, I think I've gone shorter than that!
Smile

[Image: ApothecaryChestWeekend7_html_729e8f63.jpg]

[Image: ApothecaryChestWeekend7_html_50c27808.jpg]

[Image: ApothecaryChestFinal_html_23b3cc36.jpg]

Regards from Perth

Derek
Ha!  if I had sent such small pieces through my old Delta 15", I think nothing would have come out the other side!


johnbarfielddesign.com
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#13
(03-22-2019, 10:43 AM)bargrove Wrote: Something to add to the knowledge base regarding the A3-31.  I was using this machine in planer mode recently, and on a whim, I decided to experiment a little.  I sent various thickness short (maybe 8 - 10") scrap blocks thru the machine, just to see how they would fare.  This is something that I know would not work on my previous Delta 15".  I was pleasantly surprised that they came through intact with perfect surfaces, and no snipe.   Also using the dial indicator handwheel, I could make very small (and accurate) incremental changes in thickness without getting indentations from the serrated feed roller. (Sending such short stock through the planer is probably not recommended.)

After giving the above some thought, I decided to sell my drum sander.  The Hammer machine is faster and more accurate for precision thicknessing, which was the main use for the drum sander.

johnbarfielddesign.com

As long as you don't do any shop sawn veneer work you probably won't miss the drum sander much.  

John
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#14
(03-22-2019, 01:07 PM)jteneyck Wrote: As long as you don't do any shop sawn veneer work you probably won't miss the drum sander much.  

John

Hi John,

Yes, that is probably, most certainly, true.  Although, I haven't actually tried it.....

johnbarfielddesign.com
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#15
(03-22-2019, 01:07 PM)jteneyck Wrote: As long as you don't do any shop sawn veneer work you probably won't miss the drum sander much.  

John

OK.  I tried it.  Double stick tape on a carrier board of MDF.  3/16" maple 8" wide.  First pass, great.  Second pass, lost a bit off the end.  Third pass, destroyed.  

Even if this worked, I think it would be too much trouble.  That said, if you have something important and are  careful about adhering it to a backer board, I think you could get excellent results.  I do not use veneer, so I did considered that before I sold the drum sander.  
I do end up with a lot of "veneer" though, because I resaw lumber for thickness rather than waste it in the thickness planer.

johnbarfielddesign.com
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#16
(03-22-2019, 02:14 PM)bargrove Wrote: OK.  I tried it.  Double stick tape on a carrier board of MDF.  3/16" maple 8" wide.  First pass, great.  Second pass, lost a bit off the end.  Third pass, destroyed.  

Even if this worked, I think it would be too much trouble.  That said, if you have something important and are  careful about adhering it to a backer board, I think you could get excellent results.  I do not use veneer, so I did considered that before I sold the drum sander.  
I do end up with a lot of "veneer" though, because I resaw lumber for thickness rather than waste it in the thickness planer.

johnbarfielddesign.com

That was pretty much my experience trying to plane veneer.  Even when I was successful it was too much work to justify the effort.  If you had to do a whole kitchen's worth you would die of old age first.  

One compromise approach is to cut veneer slices off each side of a planed board, and then glue those to your substrate.  Now you have a nice thick "board" again that you can plane to final thickness w/o it exploding.  As long as your planer is wide enough to handle the pieces it works very well.  

Some very nice pieces on your website.  That violin cabinet is just beautiful, inside and out.    

John
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#17
(03-23-2019, 09:50 AM)jteneyck Wrote: That was pretty much my experience trying to plane veneer.  Even when I was successful it was too much work to justify the effort.  If you had to do a whole kitchen's worth you would die of old age first.  

One compromise approach is to cut veneer slices off each side of a planed board, and then glue those to your substrate.  Now you have a nice thick "board" again that you can plane to final thickness w/o it exploding.  As long as your planer is wide enough to handle the pieces it works very well.  

Some very nice pieces on your website.  That violin cabinet is just beautiful, inside and out.    

John

Now that is a very good and useful idea.  It took a minute to sink in, but could be a very efficient way to make veneered panels.

Thanks for the compliment.  My work doesn't get much exposure here in the Midwest (Toledo).  My daughter is pressuring me to get out of the house more.

johnbarfielddesign.com
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#18
I've had my A3-41 since Christmas, and while I wouldn't recommend ignoring the manufacturer's specifications, I've done it anyways and short pieces (8 inches) have yet to be an issue for me as well. I experienced the random grenade when trying to run 1/8" planks through. Two will come out fine, one will have enormous chunks out of it. I've come to realize that for very thin pieces, it is best to cut them as close to size as possible on the saw, and then take them through a thousandth at a time. Tedious, but I haven't had as many explosions. When I first got my A3, I had the same thought that I'd never need a drum sander, but I have since realized that when I am in small box-making mode, the drum sander is the way to go.

I also have to say that my A3 was the single most expensive tool I have ever purchased, and I agonized over it a lot, and in that process I repeatedly encountered your commentary and pictures, Derek. It's part of what put me over the edge, and I am truly grateful. This thing is perfect for the capacity it has and the space it takes up in my crowded garage, and my only regret is that I didn't pull the trigger years ago. Usually it's the craftsman, not the tool, but I cannot deny that this thing has levelled up the quality of my craft and opened me up to greater possibilities.
Math is tough. Let's go shopping!
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