No wonder why OSHA has a database full of miter saw injuries
#31
I bought an inexpensive Stanley hand miter box for about $30.00. The type with the bow saw on rails.
Bought a high quality blade for it and it cuts awesome. 

It is my go to for cutting small parts like the situation in the video. It is as accurate as any power miter saw and can remove even a 1/32” from a part without risk to fingers.
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
Watch Woodcademy TV free on our website.
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#32
I got so caught up in the miter saw/safety discussion, I forgot something. I basically use my miter saw for deck/framing/etc. work. I do not cut interior trim with it, of any kind.

Reason is not safety. Reason is accuracy. I can get much better accuracy with a table saw and a V27 miter gauge. I have always had a jobsite TS for this purpose since I discovered the miter saw is too sloppy, even with the same design fine cut blade. Too easy to get a stepped cut(most common error---caused by the stock moving during an angle cut.

Another reason is what happens when making cuts for a return end. That tiny piece usually goes flying off the miter saw, regardless of where the fingers/clamps are holding the stock. With a TS and zero clearance throat plate, that tiny piece usually just falls away---biggest danger is trying to get it before the blade stops spinning---and my current job site TS has a partial blade brake, minimizing that danger even more.
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#33
Here's a $15.00 fix that works great. I have one and use it all the time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJIkx8L_ogk
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#34
(03-29-2019, 06:43 AM)fall Wrote: Here's a $15.00 fix that works great. I have one and use it all the time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJIkx8L_ogk

That's a cool idea. The flex on it seems like an issue though.  I noticed the piece was moving around a bit depending on how much pressure he applied.  Maybe a wooden one would be better.
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#35
I rip up masonite hard board to 2" widths.  I use a hot glue gun to do the same as that adjustable thing.  The masonite is free as it is all scrap.  1/4" thick plywood would work too.

The hot glue costs something.  But I was able to set the multiple angles for a 10'  wide bay window this way, and that device would have given up the ghost.  

I also have several sets of these which I use to transfer dimensions using aluminum rulers:

[Image: empire-gauges-105-64_300.jpg]
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#36
(03-28-2019, 07:23 PM)handi Wrote: I bought an inexpensive Stanley hand miter box for about $30.00. The type with the bow saw on rails.
Bought a high quality blade for it and it cuts awesome. 

It is my go to for cutting small parts like the situation in the video. It is as accurate as any power miter saw and can remove even a 1/32” from a part without risk to fingers.

I betcha the blade cost half-again as much as the box!  There are some nice japanese style blades out there.  The thing with vintage boxes is you have to be able to sharpen your saw; sending them out can cost upwards of $50 for a proper sharpening.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#37
(03-29-2019, 07:40 AM)stav Wrote: That's a cool idea. The flex on it seems like an issue though.  I noticed the piece was moving around a bit depending on how much pressure he applied.  Maybe a wooden one would be better.

The flex actually isn't as bad as it looks (that guy has muscle!), and it is a good thing for absorbing vibration. I don't own one, but have used it on a couple occasions. Like any holders, careful placement and steady hand will avoid moving a small piece when working in tight corners. I have made my sticks with a flex to make sure a firm purchase on the work.

Like I said, make your own or spend a little if your shop time is scarce... (I suppose we (who have not retired yet) all make more than $15 an hour).
Wink Either way, our fingers are worth more than money or time. And to those who insist their hands and fingers are just fine doing the job of a stick, may the safety angel be with them whenever they work with their saw. Please don't ever become a statistic.

Simon
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#38
(03-28-2019, 09:04 PM)K. L McReynolds Wrote: I got so caught up in the miter saw/safety discussion, I forgot something. I basically use my miter saw for deck/framing/etc. work. I do not cut interior trim with it, of any kind.

So your are ok with putting up twelve foot crown molding, using a table saw?

What is holding up the other end?
Smile
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#39
Posting a link without a description is a lame move.

Know that.
Don't ask me. I'm lost too.
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#40
(03-29-2019, 12:16 PM)Enigmatic Wrote: Posting a link without a description is a lame move.


Confused

Self-explanatory heading makes any description unnecessary...unless someone is lame in following a story.

Simon
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