Help removing a stuck pulley?
#21
(07-07-2019, 05:30 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: My 3/8" impact driver at ~150psi can't make it budge.  Note that I'm not actually pulling on the pulley--it's loose.  The piece that mounts between the pulley and shaft won't come off.

Advice?

Heating it with a torch is a good idea, if that alone doesn't work try hitting it with a hammer, tapping it as hard as you can without causing damage.  I've seen tapping it work wonders, but if that plus heat doesn't work, take it to a machine shop.
"Yes, of course duct tape works in a near-vacuum. Duct tape works anywhere. Duct tape is magic and should be worshiped." Andy Weir (in his book The Martian)
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#22
Will this LINK help on how to remove it.   Roly
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#23
Phil, it has a key and the pulley won't slide over it.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#24
(07-07-2019, 05:30 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: My 3/8" impact driver at ~150psi can't make it budge.  Note that I'm not actually pulling on the pulley--it's loose.  The piece that mounts between the pulley and shaft won't come off.

Advice?

Have you looked for a setscrew. Sometimes there are two  setscrews, one over the other to keep the setscrew from loosening. Your puller should easily remove the pulley from the shaft. As a last resort , grind the top of the key with a Dremel tool,  1/32" or so. Then the edges of the key at the top should be ground enough to remove burrs caused by top grinding. Install the puller, spray with penetrating oil and heat with a heat gun or hair dryer. Heat the pulley only. After heating for 2/3 minutes try to remove the pulley with the puller.
If the pulley was installed with red Loctite then heat from a torch is an option. I know of a guy that had to cut the pulley off with various methods, angle grinder, Dremel tool, hacksaw blade and probably a few others.

mike
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#25
We use those pulleys frequently. The bore of the pulley is machined with a slight taper and the body of the hub has a matching taper. The 2 slots in the hub allow it to compress onto the shaft when the hub and pulley are bolted together. The process I noted above will break the mechanical lock between hub and shaft so you only have to fight the rust.
Blackhat

Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories. 


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#26
Push come to shove, heat it a little first then use penetrating oil (Liquid wrench is my favorite- pb blaster stuff doesn't work well for me), let it sit overnight. Check the end of the shaft to make sure any hammering hasn't expanded it. Make sharp taps around the hub with a small metal hammer or point chisel- not too hard, just sharp.
Still won't budge? Drill out the key, re-soak overnight, heat and tap and pull while tapping.

Still won't come off? Stick it all in the freezer overnight, remove and quickly heat just the hub quickly and it may just fall off.
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#27
(07-08-2019, 05:32 PM)mike4244 Wrote: Have you looked for a setscrew. Sometimes there are two  setscrews, one over the other to keep the setscrew from loosening. Your puller should easily remove the pulley from the shaft. As a last resort , grind the top of the key with a Dremel tool,  1/32" or so. Then the edges of the key at the top should be ground enough to remove burrs caused by top grinding. Install the puller, spray with penetrating oil and heat with a heat gun or hair dryer. Heat the pulley only. After heating for 2/3 minutes try to remove the pulley with the puller.
If the pulley was installed with red Loctite then heat from a torch is an option. I know of a guy that had to cut the pulley off with various methods, angle grinder, Dremel tool, hacksaw blade and probably a few others.

mike

His pulley is loose. (CK picture) It's the tapered hub that is stuck.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#28
(07-08-2019, 08:01 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: His pulley is loose. (CK picture) It's the tapered hub that is stuck.

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Heat is probably going to be the best solution...and preferably from an acetylene torch...to get it really HOT !!!!!
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#29
My gear pullers work better with a hand impact than my air impacts. A sharp rap with a 3 pounder shocks and twists at the same time. Another suggestion is to just try to break it free by driving it on a little further with a piece of pipe.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#30
(07-08-2019, 10:02 PM)Timberwolf Wrote: ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Heat is probably going to be the best solution...and preferably from an acetylene torch...to get it really HOT !!!!!

i dont think the innards of that motor will like THAT much heat. cant say how many frozen things ive made come loose with mapp gas and didnt have to go balls out heating.
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