Help removing a stuck pulley?
#40
(07-15-2019, 10:10 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: Lightly sanded it to remove the rust and nicks on the key.  A little bit of grease and with some tapping with a rubber mallet and it slid on.

Timberwolf--

It's a motor I salvaged from an air compressor.  If it lasts a while, I'll be happy!  If it dies, I'm out $25.

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Well it had a high dollar pulley arrangement so it seems reasonable that the motor should be a quality one.
Winkgrin
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Upset





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#41
Speaking of which, why use a pulley setup like that?
Semper fi,
Brad

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#42
Buy only one hub. If you needed to change pulley diameter, to change the speed of the driven, buy just the pulley. You already have the hub. That's more of an industrial setup where they are constantly replacing motors and rebuilding machinery.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#43
It's also a better connection to the shaft, as it squeezes the shaft tightly when fully assembled.  Good for rough applications with lots of vibration, and reversing loads, among other things.

There are shrink-disc connections, in fact, that don't have a key or spline or set screws or anything - they just squeeze the gearbox (or whatever) shaft, which is hollow but not slotted, onto the solid shaft inside.  Squeezed hard.  We used them to connect all 16 3-stage gearboxes to these 36" locomotive wheel shafts many (many) moons ago.  The shrink-disc connections are under the yellow covers.  560 lb-ft of torque at 47 rpm (60 hp). Same with the 30" disc brake hubs on the other ends of the axles.

   
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#44
Thanks, gents.

This came from an industrial air compressor, as I said above, that my FIL, who is an HVAC guy, pulled from a shop he was doing some repair work in. The tank was working, but the reed valve in the head was bad, so they let him take it, instead of paying to junk it. He just wanted the tank for another project and gave me the motor. I have another 2hp motor, a 3ph, that he gave me, that I'll use to power the edge sander I'll start building sometime soon. It doesn't have a pulley on it, so I won't to face this again!
Semper fi,
Brad

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#45
What are you going to use this motor for, Brad?
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#46
This motor is replacing the 3/4hp on my Delta 14" band saw. I find myself doing more and more resawing. I've fitted it with a dedicated resaw blade and know it's a bit overkill, but until I can find a 1.5hp motor, I'll use it.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#47
(07-20-2019, 08:48 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: This motor is replacing the 3/4hp on my Delta 14" band saw.  I find myself doing more and more resawing.  I've fitted it with a dedicated resaw blade and know it's a bit overkill, but until I can find a 1.5hp motor, I'll use it.

Maybe overkill.  Maybe not.  Delta offered a 2 hp on the 14” BS for a time.  And when resawing, it’s pretty easy to push a motor well beyond its rated output, and having a larger motor means that at the worst, it’s not being worked as hard as a smaller motor would be.  At best, you’re less likely to let the magic smoke out.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#48
That's good to know.

My only concern was the ability of the frame to handle the increased power of the motor.
Semper fi,
Brad

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