Remove a "new work" box
#11
  
Only things I can think of:

 1. Try to get a thin reciprocating blade to cut the nails, but will that interfere with installing the old work box?
 2. Remove enough of the dry wall so I can put a 2 x 4 on the exposed rear(uggg!) of the box, if it extends beyond the stud?

The problem is that the threads in one of the eyes that takes the screw holding the outlet in place is stripped. One of the glues out there? Brass shim?

Thanks,
Tony
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#12
  Re: Remove a "new work" box by Tony (Charleston WV) (Only things I can th...)
I start by prying it loose a little then cutting the nails off. Depends on the box type how it's installed etc. But in the end it't cutting the nails. If it is installed with screws it;s harder to remove as screws are much harder to cut then cheese grade nails.
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#13
  Re: Remove a "new work" box by Tony (Charleston WV) (Only things I can th...)
I've been able to use a hacksaw like this one to squeeze between the box and the stud and cut the nails.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#14
  Re: Remove a "new work" box by Tony (Charleston WV) (Only things I can th...)
(07-21-2019, 10:32 AM)Tony (Charleston WV) Wrote: The problem is that the threads in one of the eyes that takes the screw holding the outlet in place is stripped. One of the glues out there? Brass shim?

Drill and tap for a larger screw.  It’s so small, you can probably just run a larger tap in the existing hole.  Use metric, even.  Those screws are hidden anyway.

Even a cheap Harbor Freight tap will work fine for this, and since there’s room behind the hole, you can use a starter tap (lotta taper).

For that matter, you can epoxy a nut behind the stripped hole. Hold it in place with a screw till it sets, then reassemble.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combo of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet.”







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#15
  Re: Remove a "new work" box by Tony (Charleston WV) (Only things I can th...)
(07-21-2019, 10:32 AM)Tony (Charleston WV) Wrote: The problem is that the threads in one of the eyes that takes the screw holding the outlet in place is stripped. One of the glues out there? Brass shim?

Thanks,

You need a speed or clip-on nut.

   

Go google "electrical box stripped hole repair" for more pics.
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#16
  Re: RE: Remove a "new work" box by Phil Thien ([quote='Tony (Charle...)
Are we talking a metal or plastic box ?  I have seen both sheet metal and drywall screws used for this. Not correct but seems to work.
As far as a old work box it depends on if the parts that clamp the box are on the sides or top and bottom. Remember you have no room on one side of the box as it is next to stud. Roly
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#17
  Re: Remove a "new work" box by Tony (Charleston WV) (Only things I can th...)
If it is a plastic old work box, I have dealt with stripped out screw holes with a #10 machine screw. That will just thread itself into the plastic.

If you have to remove it, I pry it a little away from the stud and then hacksaw the nails out. They won't interfere with the new work box.
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#18
  Re: Remove a "new work" box by Tony (Charleston WV) (Only things I can th...)
Fill hole with JB Weld PlasticWled, drill & re-thread screw.
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#19
  Re: Remove a "new work" box by Tony (Charleston WV) (Only things I can th...)
Fill hole with JB Weld PlasticWled, drill & re-thread screw.



^^^^^^^^^  This.


Yes
Mark Singleton

Bene vivendo est optimum vindictae
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#20
  Re: Remove a "new work" box by Tony (Charleston WV) (Only things I can th...)
Run an 8/32 tap through and get a screw to match.  job done. If you need to match screws do both holes.
John T.
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