Good starter turning set

[stillgotten]

What would be a decent starter turning set.
I was looking at the shop fox set but started reading reviews that they were too short for their liking.
should I buy these as a set or maybe buy a little better tool as one at a time deal as needed.
I'm making a big plunge(for me) into the turning world soon and I believe I have the right lathe set for what I think/wish I'll be going towards
Or should I go for broke and get one of this nifty handles with collets and just change out the blades as desired.

[Stwood_]

Used to be that Sears
  had very decent starter sets.
Not sure about today's selection though as I haven't held any newer ones.

[stillgotten]

Used to be that Sears
  had very decent starter sets.
Not sure about today's selection though as I haven't held any newer ones.

I used to own an older sears set along with an old sears lathe(1980's)..didn't use it too much and gave it away 20 or so years ago, didn't keep anything. No Sears around here any longer.

[Stwood_]

Ok. I have a few of Packard's tools. Very decent quality. Their prices are all over the map.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant...Code=tools

[SteveS]

I wouldn't bother with sets but get good individual tools based on the type of turning you're interested in. I don't do much spindle work so I use bowl gouges frequently. Scrapers are always of use so whether you get a HSS or carbide you'll use it.

[stillgotten]

I wouldn't bother with sets but get good individual tools based on the type of turning you're interested in. I don't do much spindle work so I use bowl gouges frequently. Scrapers are always of use so whether you get a HSS or carbide you'll use it.

I guess that is the question I'm asking, to get a set or to go for the individuals.
I just have the impression that sets of just about anything related to tools are worth just about nothing.
I failed to mention that I plan to do predominantly bowl turning and maybe just some spinal turns.

[sniper]

When I started, I bought separates from Craft Supply's Artisan set

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/t/130...?b=artisan

I'm still using the original tools and have added to them as needed. I think I started with a:
Spindle gouge
Bowl gouge
Skew Chisel
Diamond Parting tool

I did splurge and get a very nice roughing gouge from P&N (Craft Supply used to carry these)

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant...-pn-rouggo

I bought also bought a pen turning set as that is how I started turning. I use the small skew chisel from that occasionally, but wish I had just saved my money and not gotten them

Hope this helps.

Steve

[stillgotten]

Yes it does help. 
I get the idea to drop the sets and buy as needed in individual tools. Thanks for the insight.

[sniper]

Yes it does help. 
I get the idea to drop the sets and buy as needed in individual tools. Thanks for the insight.

One dilemma I had when I got my tools was the roughing gouge did not come with a handle, soooooo....how to rough out a handle?
From advice here, I used the bowl gouge to rough it out. I've always liked the heft that roughing gouge has compared to others I've used at our local wood shop. Again, someone here advised me to get a heavier roughing gouge and recommended the P&N. It was very good advice. I've been turning for over 11 years now and it's still going strong, just a little shorter than it used to be.

[MichaelMouse]

Yes it does help. 
I get the idea to drop the sets and buy as needed in individual tools. Thanks for the insight.

Didja notice that most sets have the same tools?  That's because they're the ones that do most tasks you are likely to encounter in turning..  Get an economical set and, as you learn, consider (but don't believe they will improve your results) special steels or patterns which might do other things  you want to do.  I still have, and use, my "came with" set of carbon steel tools similar to https://www.amazon.com/Bastex-Profession...sr=8-15for the tasks at which they excel. Some are getting pretty short in the tooth, as some might say, but since I don't give away advantage by hanging them out from the toolrest, no problems. Such a start needs only a deep flute "bowl" gouge and a broad sweep "roughing gouge" to equal what I've used over 30 years.


FWIW, the pictured "roughing gouge" is too narrow, in my experience.  1 1/4 minimum is much better, I would say.   Cylindrical gouges, even so-called spindle gouges which are made shallower by grinding away some of the upper parts to attempt to make them into traditional pattern forged gouges, have flutes too narrow, and therefore thickness too variable, to compare with the planning action of broad sweep gouges.