Finishing red oak
#8
  
I just replaced about 23 SF of damaged red oak flooring in a small powder room. I have the correct stain from the builder I’ll match as best I can at the door opening.

1- What’s the best method and materials to apply the poly in this small area?
2-Also, what wood filler should be used to fill face nailed boards and imperfections/gaps before staining?

I don’t know if the original floor had oil or water based poly. Any advice appreciated!
Paul
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#9
  Re: Finishing red oak by plharrison (I just replaced abou...)
(11-26-2019, 02:30 PM)plharrison Wrote: I just replaced about 23 SF of damaged red oak flooring in a small powder room. I have the correct stain from the builder I’ll match as best I can at the door opening.

1- What’s the best method and materials to apply the poly in this small area?
2-Also, what wood filler should be used to fill face nailed boards and imperfections/gaps before staining?

I don’t know if the original floor had oil or water based poly. Any advice appreciated!
Paul

1)  Brush or pad

2) TimberMate.  But wait until after the first coat of poly is dry.  If you apply it earlier some of the filler will fill the grain around the hole and it will stand out when you stain/finish it.  The only way to prevent that is to drive your nails through a piece of tape then apply the filler while the tape is still in place.  Timbermate comes in many colors, including red oak, and is easily adjusted by intermixing or adding Transtint dye.  Water soluble until finished, TimberMate never goes bad and is easy to clean up.  

3)  OB or WB.  Makes no difference, both are good.  OB is inherently amber if that's a help.  WB dries much faster.  

John
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#10
  Re: RE: Finishing red oak by jteneyck ([quote='plharrison' ...)
(11-26-2019, 03:57 PM)jteneyck Wrote: 1)  Brush or pad

2) TimberMate.  But wait until after the first coat of poly is dry.  If you apply it earlier some of the filler will fill the grain around the hole and it will stand out when you stain/finish it.  The only way to prevent that is to drive your nails through a piece of tape then apply the filler while the tape is still in place.  Timbermate comes in many colors, including red oak, and is easily adjusted by intermixing or adding Transtint dye.  Water soluble until finished, TimberMate never goes bad and is easy to clean up.  

3)  OB or WB.  Makes no difference, both are good.  OB is inherently amber if that's a help.  WB dries much faster.  

John

Thanks John. Are you saying wait until the first coat of poly dries before filling the holes? I had planned on filling them before sanding and before the stain.
Paul
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
Reply
#11
  Re: RE: Finishing red oak by plharrison ([quote='jteneyck' pi...)
(11-27-2019, 10:23 AM)plharrison Wrote: Thanks John. Are you saying wait until the first coat of poly dries before filling the holes? I had planned on filling them before sanding and before the stain.
Paul

Yes.  Reread what I said in 2) for why.  But if that doesn't bother you go ahead and fill them first.   

John
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#12
  Re: RE: Finishing red oak by jteneyck ([quote='plharrison' ...)
(11-27-2019, 11:01 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Yes.  Reread what I said in 2) for why.  But if that doesn't bother you go ahead and fill them first.   

John

+1  and it will probably bother you if you fill first.   I know it sounds backwards but it is not.  Much better results.   Roly
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#13
  Re: Finishing red oak by plharrison (I just replaced abou...)
Ok gotcha. Just making sure that’s what I read cause it sound backwards!
Paul
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
Reply
#14
  Re: RE: Finishing red oak by plharrison (Ok gotcha. Just maki...)
(11-27-2019, 12:42 PM)plharrison Wrote: Ok gotcha. Just making sure that’s what I read cause it sound backwards!
Paul

Do some tests on scrap and judge for yourself.  You always should anyway, from start to finish.   

John
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