Renovate an old table saw ?sed
#24
Gary the model number starts 113, so I’m guessing Emerson. Will see if I can confirm that via serial number. 

Right now my brain and wallet are arguing over what fence upgrade to get.  I put a new belt on it and that was a big help as the saw had set for at least three years without being used. Sure was a good turning blank shelf. 

In addition to the new fence I want a riving knife and a way to collect the sawdust directly into the dust collector. The saw’s first owner built an under the saw box for sawdust collection. Fence first the rest probably whenever.
Jim

There is a good chance
Broccoli doesn’t like you either.
Reply
#25
Those 113 model saws are good saws. When my father gave me his the motor was shot. I found a 2HP motor that fit. I built a base to put it on with a solid top. I cut a hole in the top and attached a dust collector. Used some hardboard to generally seal up the back of the saw. Now instead of a pile of dust under the saw the dust ends up in the dust collector. I also added a Vega pro fence and an Incra 1000se miter gage. Also get some saw pals https://www.in-lineindustries.com/produc...-saw-pals/ . I know there will be some that disagree with this statement but using saw pals on your saw is easier than adjusting a true cabinet saw. In the end I did finally get a Grizzly cabinet saw but the only thing I gained was the ability to tilt the blade a full 45. That 2HP motor would start coming above the table when titled about 40-45 degrees. That saw is still sitting on dollies in my shop because there has to be something I could do with it.
Reply
#26
(12-19-2019, 01:54 PM)Robin Dobbie Wrote: While we're talking blade recommendations, something to consider also is 7-1/4" blades. Usually .063" kerf which might be desirable for batching out pen blanks in nicer wood. Minimal waste, and a much lower load on the motor, which is probably only 1HP. The best thing is they're only like $15.

With 30 years as a professional woodworker and studying saw blades and cutting tools, I disagree. 
The Kerf waste between a thin kerf blade and your blade is about 0.030”. So to get one more blank out of a board, it would need to phenomenally wide. Even when I rip 1/8” strips, whichI do a lot, the 0.030” would not yield more than 1 extra strip from a 6” wide board.

The thinner blade will certainly flex more under the cutting load, and the smaller diameter means that the tooth speed will not be as designed by the manufacturer.

Just my 2 cents.
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
Watch Woodcademy TV free on our website.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.