electric clothes dryer - heating coil
#15
  Re: electric clothes dryer - heating coil by varkpilot (electric dryer heati...)
THANKS TO ALL FOR THE REPLIES!

Our machine is as old as the pyramids!!  MAYTAG A512 that has served us very well [told by the techies:  "as long as you can get parts, keep it!"]

Should have provided more detail in OP.  Good airflow to louvered vent.  The household is very good at cleaning the filter after every op.  It's been awhile but the last time I was inside the dryer I remember a single coil.

My bride is driving this issue.  She's sure it's taking too long to dry a load.  I think she expects too much when the dryer is loaded with a lot of wet towels!  Next load will be smaller........we'll see!  :>)

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
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#16
  Re: electric clothes dryer - heating coil by varkpilot (electric dryer heati...)
Sometimes the heating coil breaks and a broken end lands on the duct*, which allows it to work, but at reduced heat output.  Absent the fancy electronics, it doesn’t know any better.  

*I believe those old Maytags had a duct with element or elements (could be 3 of them) inside.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combo of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet.”







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#17
  Re: electric clothes dryer - heating coil by varkpilot (electric dryer heati...)
It has been since the '80s, but I think I had a washer with the element half burned out but it still worked.  Although IIRC, that thing had 2 elements in parallel. That one was a pain to fix, had to take out the drum.  Although they are very simple machines.  The only thing I would worry about on an old one is wiring and switches going out.  But there should be a lifetime supply of those switches.  

The one we have now couldn't be easier to fix.  Take off the bottom front panel, undo a couple of spade connectors, slide out the heating element.  Then do the reverse, et voila!  Hardest part is remembering how the front panel clips work.
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#18
  Re: electric clothes dryer - heating coil by varkpilot (electric dryer heati...)
If the vent is clear all the way it could be the element.  The other part that can go if it is still heating is the thermal sensor.  If the sensor is not working for the desired temperature it will shut off.  If it is the heating element, it usually is broken someplace.  Only way to know for sure is to take it out and do a continuity check, also visual for broken spots. Depends on the type for ease of installation.  My Kenmore Elite, so far on the 3rd element, 1 sensor and door handle & Frame. (Door frame was because the mount holes broke, door handle kept breaking, reinforced it with longer screws and fender washers.) Dan
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