Upside down jigsaw table?
#18
(01-10-2020, 07:48 AM)stoppy Wrote: Anyone here build one?  It struck me as a good complement to a bandsaw for cutting enclosed parts like windows in my current toy project.  Was wondering if anyone had built one and was it worth the effort?

I built two. First one was for myself and the other for a friend. Very simple and it works well if you have a good saw and Bosch blades. 
Make a box that is open on the bottom so it can be clamped to a bench. I used a piece of MDF for the table, 1/4" plywood for the ends to keep it square. Cut a slot for the blade. Mount the saw under the table. I drilled 4  pilot holes in the base and screwed the base to the table using tee-nuts that were slightly countersunk on table top. I think I used 8/32 screws, doesn't matter as long as it holds. 
I installed a switched receptacle on one end. First use I had a problem with tight curves, wound up with slight bevel because the blade bent. 
Remedied this by making an over head adjustable guide. Slides up and down , captures the side of the blade with "cool blocks". Not the real McCoy, just wooden dowels that touch the blade on each side. I added a thrust bearing , probably overkill. Same bearing as from a bandsaw. 
The saw is a barrel handle saw with Bosch Progressor blades. 
The guide is set to almost touch the work as this type of saw tends to push the work up.
I clear the blade with a set up using compressed air. I mounted a lever valve on the corner of the table connected to a hose. I open the valve slightly to blow the dust from the cut line. My friend used an aquarium pump instead of a compressor, both work well.
I think the important things to a good table mounted saber saw is a decent saw, progressor blades and the upper guide .

mike
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#19
(01-10-2020, 06:32 PM)mike4244 Wrote: slight bevel because the blade bent.
Remedied this by making an over head adjustable guide.

This is the key right here, I think. I haven't made one, but it seems non-negotiable. One could even use bearings since they're pretty cheap.

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#20
Thanks everyone, most of the bodies of the toys I’m making are from 2x4 stock. My Bosch 1590 saw has the shorter T101 wood blades. I think my whole issue will be resolved by moving to the longer Bosch T345 progressor blades. I’m holding the blank in a vise and the longer blade will get rid of the occasional bounce issue I was having hitting the unsawn board bottom. Depending on whether we’re still getting rain later this morning and not freezing rain the local Lowe’s has them in stock. Special thanks mike4244 for the “aha” moment. The learning curve changes when a tool one uses rarely to one you use everyday.
Jim

There is a good chance
Broccoli doesn’t like you either.
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#21
Stumpy Nubs built one of these and also uses the Blade Runner by Rockwell.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_68LOm7KCR4 I have a older router table plate from Rockler for it, so thinking of building one.
Dan
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#22
Got the new Bosch progressor blade. Did some interior cuts, problem solved. Cut was smooth. Now if the operator can stay on the line to cut he’ll cut down dramatically on rasping.
Jim

There is a good chance
Broccoli doesn’t like you either.
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#23
(01-10-2020, 02:37 PM)ez-duzit Wrote: This is what you want.

Plus a scroll saw is going to be much safer.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#24
(01-15-2020, 08:42 AM)Cooler Wrote: Plus a scroll saw is going to be much safer.

And if you think the jigsaw cuts are smooth, you don't know what you're missing.  
Wink
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?

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