balanced veneering of plywood, thickness and cut?
#11
I've got a cabinet project I'm working out details on (TV console) and was going to use BB plywood as a substrate, edge banded with solid walnut and veneered with 1/16" quarter sawn walnut.

for the opposing face (inside the box), to "maintain balance" I believe I should use 1/16" veneer as well (is that true?) but is flat-sawn suitable or do I need to stick with quarter sawn veneer?

probably overthinking... 
Cool
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#12
It doesn't matter as long as the relative thicknesses are the same. At least that's been my experience, but Joe Woodworker seems to suggest you might want to consider the grain.  He sells backer with different grain types.
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#13
(01-20-2020, 11:07 AM)fredhargis Wrote: It doesn't matter as long as the relative thicknesses are the same. At least that's been my experience, but Joe Woodworker seems to suggest you might want to consider the grain.  He sells backer with different grain types.

Thanks!
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#14
On a semi-related note, do you plan to vacuum laminate or go with weights and clamps? Curious, because I have a project coming up that calls for lamination over ply, and I do not own a vacuum press as of yet.
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#15
(01-20-2020, 10:43 AM)mound Wrote: I've got a cabinet project I'm working out details on (TV console) and was going to use BB plywood as a substrate, edge banded with solid walnut and veneered with 1/16" quarter sawn walnut.

for the opposing face (inside the box), to "maintain balance" I believe I should use 1/16" veneer as well (is that true?) but is flat-sawn suitable or do I need to stick with quarter sawn veneer?

probably overthinking... 
Cool

I would use MDF instead of plywood. If you use plywood the veneer grain direction should be perpendicular to the cabinet plywood. Veneer both sides. The veneers can be different species but try to use same thickness.
mike
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#16
(01-20-2020, 03:21 PM)mike4244 Wrote: I would use MDF instead of plywood. If you use plywood the veneer grain direction should be perpendicular to the cabinet plywood. Veneer both sides. The veneers can be different species but try to use same thickness.
mike

Direction of the new veneer does not need to be different from the factory veneer.
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#17
(01-20-2020, 01:12 PM)JohnnyEgo Wrote: On a semi-related note, do you plan to vacuum laminate or go with weights and clamps?  Curious, because I have a project coming up that calls for lamination over ply, and I do not own a vacuum press as of yet.

You can get one of the RoarRocket bags inexpensively. They have a larger size bag that can accommodate cabinet door size work. I don't have a vac pump, just use their gizmo. Ok for occasional work, but if you did a lot of vac veneering, get a "real" bag and pump.
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#18
(01-21-2020, 08:56 AM)Rob Young Wrote: You can get one of the RoarRocket bags inexpensively. They have a larger size bag that can accommodate cabinet door size work. I don't have a vac pump, just use their gizmo. Ok for occasional work, but if you did a lot of vac veneering, get a "real" bag and pump.

I started with the RR kit before I got my vacuum pump and used it on a number of projects. It only pulls about half what a pump does but still works quite well.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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#19
(01-20-2020, 01:12 PM)JohnnyEgo Wrote: On a semi-related note, do you plan to vacuum laminate or go with weights and clamps?  Curious, because I have a project coming up that calls for lamination over ply, and I do not own a vacuum press as of yet.

I plan to vacuum bag it.. I have a large bag and one of the Joe Woodworker systems. Love it!
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#20
(01-20-2020, 04:58 PM)SteveS Wrote: Direction of the new veneer does not need to be different from the factory veneer.

I've always wondered if this is a wives tale.
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