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Tails, rather than risk breaking one off, when all the junk gets pushed out....
I do work from both faces, going 1/2 way down....
But, it is nice not having to push ALL the junk out at once..
Same goes for the pins..
1/2 way..flip over..
And..sometimes the 1/8" sash chisel is the only width that fits...
YMMV, of course..
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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Now I see the difference. You don't fret or "cope" out the waste before the chiselling process.
Simon
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Would take too long to get that type of saw down from the hanger, set the blade, saw it, and then still need a chisel to finish up...Haven't got all day
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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02-06-2020, 03:35 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-06-2020, 03:52 PM by Handplanesandmore.)
(02-06-2020, 03:09 PM)bandit571 Wrote: Would take too long to get that type of saw down from the hanger, set the blade, saw it, and then still need a chisel to finish up...Haven't got all day
Take a look at Cosman's 3 minute (or something like that) dovetail video...the fretsawing (or was it coping?) took 30 seconds(?) or so. I might not be as fast as he, but after all these years of tailing and pinning, I don't need a lot of time to saw out the waste.
Sellers chisels all his way too if I remember his videos correctly, but in terms of speed, his chiselling wouldn't match sawing. Don't forget sawing keeps the chisel edge to stay sharp longer especially when hardwood is used.
Simon
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Didn't Franck Klausz use just a chisel in the one youtube video....or was that someone else?
I look at that coping saw step as just an added complication that can go wrong....plus the added expense of the saw AND the blades....prefer chisels....even when I do finger/box joints.
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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I believe Klausz was seen in different videos using different methods to remove the waste- chisel only in one, and bow saw in another. Cosman did his dovetail video after he saw Klausz's 3 minute bowsawn video.
Simon
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02-06-2020, 06:56 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-06-2020, 06:57 PM by Derek Cohen.)
When you make tails (in the drawers) like these, you need a 1/8” or 3/16” chisel ...
![[Image: Final8.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/tTSML4n5/Final8.jpg)
When you do this ...
![[Image: 822F1E17-DD30-4C28-A6C9-6BF263D1ED19.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/ZYL4Rf6L/822F1E17-DD30-4C28-A6C9-6BF263D1ED19.jpg)
... You could use anything, including a router.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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Was it the light or did you use a different wood to make the wider drawer, Derek?
Nice, clean work!
Simon
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Would like to stay and argue about this, but....I have mortises to chop...
Like them so I can set up two finished ones, without any glue needed...
However..that 8mm Narex mortise chisel has one too many bevels on it..
 ..Ash didn't like it.
Will re-sharpen it tomorrow into a single 25 degree bevel...the 35 degree was simply a hindrance, and did not work.
 4 more mortises to chop, don't intend to take all day doing it. Then, I'll get back to dovetails...half blind ones for a drawer...
You all have fun...
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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(02-06-2020, 07:55 PM)Handplanesandmore Wrote: Was it the light or did you use a different wood to make the wider drawer, Derek?
Nice, clean work!
Simon
Thanks Simon. The carcase is Hard Maple. The drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak (which is a eucalyptus, but looks and works like quarter sawn White Oak); the fronts are Black Walnut, Jarrah, and a curly Hard Maple.
The write up is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/H...tures.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
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