Pegboard Hook Locks
#16
(02-20-2020, 12:12 PM)Willyou Wrote: I've done this for years and have a technique that only takes a short time to do. It's not great if you move the hooks a lot. But, if you keep them in place, the method is very secure. If anyone is interested, I can show the steps.

I have also implemented that solution but only as you noted when the hooks aren't going to be moved. I would be interested in your technique for making the locks. I used #12 copper wire, a vise and a ball peen hammer.

Attached is a photo showing how I use this method to secure a block of wood that I use to store various screwdriver tips and extensions on my pegboard. The wood has a pair of dowels that plug into the pegboard to keep it in place. The copper wire lock prevents the pair of dowels from slipping out of the holes with the result being my bits and extension on the floor.

Bill


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#17
Here is a photo showing the 3 basic steps I go through. I also use either #12 or #14 copper wire. #12 works better but, #14 is a littler easier to work with. Soft galv. wire also works. I use a pair of long nose pliers mainly. I start by doubling about 1" of the wire end. Then put a "Z" bend in the doubled part making sure that the bends are sharp. Then I put the "Z" into a hole below the hook and wrap the wire around the hook. I then grab the end of the wire with the pliers up close to the hook and crank it around tightly and snip it off. Done. If I need to move the hook, I just snip the wire anchor off, throw it away and make  another.

   

What I like about this method is that it stops the side to side wiggle of the hooks once they are anchored even if the hook does not have a tab that goes into a second hole.

I don't know how my photo got into your post ??? Very curious.
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#18
(02-24-2020, 11:17 AM)Willyou Wrote: Here is a photo showing the 3 basic steps I go through. I also use either #12 or #14 copper wire. #12 works better but, #14 is a littler easier to work with. Soft galv. wire also works. I use a pair of long nose pliers mainly. I start by doubling about 1" of the wire end. Then put a "Z" bend in the doubled part making sure that the bends are sharp. Then I put the "Z" into a hole below the hook and wrap the wire around the hook. I then grab the end of the wire with the pliers up close to the hook and crank it around tightly and snip it off. Done. If I need to move the hook, I just snip the wire anchor off, throw it away and make  another.



What I like about this method is that it stops the side to side wiggle of the hooks once they are anchored even if the hook does not have a tab that goes into a second hole.

I don't know how my photo got into your post ??? Very curious.

I pulled that photo (plus two others) from an Internet post - either a video or write up with photos. I don't remember.

Bill
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#19
(02-24-2020, 12:32 PM)wjt Wrote: I pulled that photo (plus two others) from an Internet post - either a video or write up with photos. I don't remember.

Bill

Oh. I didn't notice it until after my last post. I thought it might have been something I did but, I couldn't figure out how.
Smile

On a more serious note, I do think it would be proper for you to say where the pictures you post come from if they are not yours. Thanks for explaining.
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#20
The Triton hooks come with a screw lock included.

You can get them from Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/slp/triton-lockin...5bn8v4z62o

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51KR...0,500_.jpg


There is a pretty good video (but with dismal resolution) showing how it works here:  https://www.wayfair.com/storage-organiza...p1005.html
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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