Legs for assembly table?

[Cooler]

I used 2 x 4s for the legs on mine with 2 x 4s for the upper and lower skirts.  I put a 3/4" MDF shelf on the lower skirts and I drilled a copy of a Festool MFT table top from 3/4" MDF.

I assembled using butt joints and two pocket screws per joint.  No  glue.  Very rigid and strong when assembled.

For an assembly table I recommend doing the same for the top.  You can also buy a MFT top, but they are expensive (and are basically a consumable product).

I bought a 3/4" diameter bushing and a 3/4" diameter auger tipped drill bit.  The auger tip was a mistake and it sucked the bit in too fast .  Use a backer board when drilling or the underside will be ragged.

I also added peg board to the sides and back of the leg assembly.  The peg board acted as gussets and made the entire assembly very rigid.  I built two and put them both on locking swivel casters so I can move them around.  For larger pieces this is very handy.

I used pegboard as a template to drill pilot holes 4" on center.  On each table one hole is out of alignment.  I don't know why that is.  So I do  not use the holes as a gage, but only for clamping.

[Willyou]

You have lots of good information on making a base. For the top, I suggest considering the use of a solid core door. Get a used one if you can and cut it to the size you need. I have used one for many years and find it to be very stable, flat, and solid. I have mine covered with plastic laminate so that I can use it as a gluing surface. When gluing up something like frame and panel doors, I can clamp them down to the table and I am assured that they will be flat when the glue cures. Any glue left on the table (laminate) will scrape right off.

[cputnam]

Consider a 20 mm grid system or a 3/4" grid system. The variety of clamping solutions that result boggle the mind. Make the top sacrificial and you have a cutting table as well as an assembly table. MDF can be surprisingly strong - depending on the span.

[GeeDub]

Food for thought.

   

   

   

[Cooler]

I used Festool's MFT table dimensions for my assembly tables (3).  I figured that Festool's engineers had spent countless hours determining the best and most useful size for the table.  And since I did not have any overriding need for specific dimensions for my tables I simply copied.  I have not had situations where I have regretted my decision.

https://www.google.com/search?client=fir...ftUe8O7nsc

Table Dimensions   45 9/16" x 30 7/16" (1157 x 773 mm)

Two of the tables are on locking casters and I can arrange them in a L-formation, a T-formation or simply as a double long table or a double wide table.  It has worked well for me.

The third table is on adjustable height leveling feet and I use it as an out-feed table.  I used drilled MDF for the top and undrilled mdf for the bottom shelf.  On the sides I also used 3/4" MDF, which I drilled to accept 1/2" dowels that I glued in and I keep my saw blades and dado blades mounted on those dowels (about 5" long).  I have not had occasion to use the drilled holes on the out-feed, so I probably wasted my time and effort drilling all those holes.

[Hank Knight]

Aram, my workbench base is similar to DaveR1's diagram except it doesn't have the long top rails. Instead, I have wide, thick bottom rails mortised and tenoned into the legs. The big shoulders of the bottom rail tenons give me plenty of lateral stability. I don't have to worry about an apron gettin in the way of clamping to the top. It has short rails (front-to-back) both top and bottom, also mortised into the legs, that prevent fore and aft racking. The top overhangs on the ends about 18" so I have plenty of room to clamp on the ends. It's very sturdy - hasn't moved in 15 years.

[paul2004]

I think you are overthinking it a bit, OP.
No need for 4 x 4 legs or double 2 x 4
I have a 4 x 8 outfeed table/assembly table.
It's slightly larger than 4 x 8 so that I Can store sheet goods under it.
2 x 4 legs , screwed into "rectangles" at the top and bottom.
I got a butcher block top from menards, drilled 3/4" holes in it and made that the top.
I intend to put an oil finish on it so that it will resist glue sticking to it.. for now, I just put a plastic sheet over it when I glue up.
I don't use the top as sacrificial, but I can see why some guys would.

The menard's butcher block was already flat, very easy to attach. I put a few shims under it because my 2 x 4 frame was not perfectly flat.

Edit.. I don't use my table for hand planing.. if you plan on doing that, then yes, beef it up as much as possible. I use my clamps for holding things while sanding, etc. not much force needed.