Need advise on a Miter box

[Arlin Eastman]

Bandit uses one all the time and seen the one Aram uses to.

I would like to get a not to expensive miter box and saw that all I need to do is dial it in and cut.  I am thinking it would be so much easier then a table saw and less chance of cut fingers.

Also what are the different degree indents that it could be cut at.  Any thing between 0* and 45*?  How would we get something like 22* or 30* or anything else that is needed???  How high can wood be cut on one, 2", 3", 4"??

Thanks for the help and advise.

[Aram]

Bandit uses one all the time and seen the one Aram uses to.

I would like to get a not to expensive miter box and saw that all I need to do is dial it in and cut.  I am thinking it would be so much easier then a table saw and less chance of cut fingers.

Also what are the different degree indents that it could be cut at.  Any thing between 0* and 45*?  How would we get something like 22* or 30* or anything else that is needed???  How high can wood be cut on one, 2", 3", 4"??

Thanks for the help and advise.

Hey Arlin,

I see a few Langdons on eBay. Not sure how much you want to spend, but they are very nice. Might be on the pricey side though. Mine has detents at 90 and both 45s. You can lock it anywhere.

[bandit571]

I also use a few by Stanley....Both can actually go past 45 degrees....until they swing into the edge of the deck.    The older ones did not have degree markings.   They were laid out by the number of sides a box needed to be cut.....a marking down on the far end is not a 45..it is a 4...as in four sides to the box...aka 45 degrees.   then count up from there...up to ( I think 12?).....and some have a detent at each marking....so..a 22-1/2 degree cut would be set at "8".

Depth of cut is governed by how much saw plate is below the spine.   My Langdon and the Stanley 358 will cut about 5"...depending on how many sharpenings the saw has been through.  They do make one that will cut 6"....  I have a smaller box..a Stanley 3(frame size)4(height of blade)6(length of saw...26")  No. 346. 

For smaller stuff, like trim and moldings....look for a Stanley No. 150....
There is a Jorgensen style of mitre box....saw looks like a hacksaw on steroids....Stanley has their version, and I have seen the one with a Craftsman labeled box in Menard's.

[Bill_Houghton]

All of the quality older boxes I've seen will cut any angle you need, up to and occasionally past 45 degrees.  As with powered chopsaws, on some, the detents for common angles are sometimes pretty strong, and you have to hold the saw carriage in position firmly while tightening the position clamp.  For setting the angle, what I find works best is an adjustable bevel set to the angle I need, and held against the saw (in the saw carriage) and fence while tightening the clamp to the angle.  Much of my work is remodeling, and I'll often take the angle directly off the work with a bevel, using that to set the angle.  Since my 1895 house laughs at the concept of 90 degree angles, I set many "custom" angles when cutting, and I've never had a problem getting the angle correct with my Langdon box.

If it's a single precise cut you need, do a test piece.  If it's not just right, go find an empty cereal or similar box, and cut shims from it that will go between fence and wood, to fine tune the angle.

Height depends on what size of miter box you get, and the saw you put in it.  Obviously, for a big saw (lots of blade between teeth and back), you need a big box.

[grwold]

Stanley 3(frame size)4(height of blade)6(length of saw...26")  No. 346. 

Interesting. I've been idly looking at miter boxes for a while, figuring I'll pick one up in the near future, and wondered what the models were. I hadn't seen this explanation anywhere before now. Thanks!

[Arlin Eastman]

So what is a good price to pay for one??

[enjuneer]

Arlin,

I know where there is an older Craftsman-branded mitre box. Based on its features, I thought it was a Stanley when I first saw it, but it had the Craftsman trademark, as did the saw. Someone changed the handle to an older Disston handle, but that is not a bad thing. They are much more comfortable.

If it might be of interest, I will try to get some photos next time I'm over in the shop where it is located.

Shipping will not be inexpensive, as mitre boxes are large and some have delicate cast iron bodies. They must be packed securely with lots of packing material.

[Arlin Eastman]

I seen these on ebay and want to ask everyone what you think???

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hempe-Miter-Box...0005.m1851


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-Miter-B...Sw6n5XtLsR


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Stanley...Sw7SZeVzrK

let me know and thank you

[Arlin Eastman]

I sure could use an answer on the Stanly one on auction since it closes out tomorrow.

Thanks  It IS the right price to.

[bandit571]

The first one?   NO

The second option?    Walk into a Lowes and buy the same thing, except it will be in a Craftsman box

The 3rd one?    Would be nice...until you look at the cost of shipping the dang thing.....

Option 2 sounds better...not best, just better than the other 2.   

IF there was a way to getone of my extra boxes to you, I would.....I have the Jorgensen version of #2 option....and there is a Stanley #2246A that I no longer need.  But, the shipping would be a little bit too much $$$.....

   

   
the Jorgensen...and 

   

   
The Stanley 2246A