Kerfing Chisel
#21
I ordered this stainless steel laboratory "spatula" to make a "kerfing chisel" after watching Derek's video. It is larger than most I've seen. It is approximately 3/4" wide and appears to very robust. I've received it from the seller, but I haven't had time to try it out. It looks likes it will work very well for this purpose.

https://www.calpaclab.com/double-ended-s...789-130-ea
Reply
#22
(03-23-2020, 03:19 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: I never heard of a kerfing chisel.  Why is it a normal chisel can not work??

Nobody else has ever heard of a kerfing chisel either, Arlin. Regular chisels work just fine. 

I have been making lipped drawers for over forty years. I use a 1/4 inch chisel and a 5/8 chisel (or 3/4) to clean out the sockets. Here in Pennsylvania we have been making lipped drawers for 300 years. 
Smile
Reply
#23
(03-23-2020, 06:06 PM)wmickley Wrote: Nobody else has ever heard of a kerfing chisel either, Arlin. Regular chisels work just fine. 

I have been making lipped drawers for over forty years. I use a 1/4 inch chisel and a 5/8 chisel (or 3/4) to clean out the sockets. Here in Pennsylvania we have been making lipped drawers for 300 years. 
Smile

I do ask because most everyone here knows more then me and that is why the question.  New tools come out all the time to make things either better or easier and this looks like one of them.

Until I watch the video I will know more but I just do not do any good dovetails year and hope to soon.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Reply
#24
(03-23-2020, 07:46 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: I do ask because most everyone here knows more then me and that is why the question.  New tools come out all the time to make things either better or easier and this looks like one of them.

Until I watch the video I will know more but I just do not do any good dovetails year and hope to soon.

Arlin, there are pictorials on my website which may assist your quest ...

Through dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/T...ails3.html

[Image: Through-Dovetails3-html-ddca226.jpg]

Half-blind dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/H...eTape.html

[Image: Half-Blind-Dovetailswith-Blue-Tape-html-c83a6a3.jpg]

Mitred through dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/A...able2.html

[Image: Another-Coffee-Table2-html-39ca4911.jpg]

Practice. Try the blue tape method. Take your time. Don’t be tentative - go for it!

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
Reply
#25
IF I need a "kerfing chisel"....I do have a "made in" Union N. J.   U.S.A.  Red Devil 4101

A stiff steel blade, walnut handle, brass rivets.   1-1/4" wide.


may get it cleaned up, after a bit.....
Winkgrin

Cleaned up nicely.
Cool
   
Details?
   
And the logo..
Cool 
   

Brass riveted handle...wood MIGHT be either Walnut, or Rosewood.   Blade is NOT the flexible style,  it takes a lot of force to even start it to bend.  

wasn't a "cheap" one...either.  Was from before the age of "hanger holed handles" ..
Winkgrin
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
Reply
#26
(03-25-2020, 12:04 PM)bandit571 Wrote: IF I need a "kerfing chisel"....I do have a "made in" Union N. J.   U.S.A.  Red Devil 4101

A stiff steel blade, walnut handle, brass rivets.   1-1/4" wide.

That should work. Grind the business end flat across and the corners of the blade should be square. If rounded, even slightly, it won't drive straight down.
Mike B.

One thing is for certain though. Whichever method you use, you can be absolutely certain that you are most assuredly doing it wrong.        Axehandle, 2/24/2016
Do not get in to much of a hurry buddy...  Arlin, 5/18/2022
Apology excepted.  TT. 2/25/20223
Reply
#27
Just tried it a bit ago....drove straight down in end grain Pine...might be a keeper..
Cool
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
Reply
#28
I've used a card scraper, but, generally don't get too excited about trying to remember where I laid down that "special tool" (spoken generically).
Waiting to grow up beyond being just a member
www.metaltech-pm.com
Reply
#29
(03-25-2020, 12:04 PM)bandit571 Wrote: IF I need a "kerfing chisel"....I do have a "made in" Union N. J.   U.S.A.  Red Devil 4101

A stiff steel blade, walnut handle, brass rivets.   1-1/4" wide.


may get it cleaned up, after a bit.....
Winkgrin

Cleaned up nicely.
Cool

Details?

And the logo..
Cool 


Brass riveted handle...wood MIGHT be either Walnut, or Rosewood.   Blade is NOT the flexible style,  it takes a lot of force to even start it to bend.  

wasn't a "cheap" one...either.  Was from before the age of "hanger holed handles" ..
Winkgrin

I couldn't count the number of times I used that red devil putty knife when I was a painter's apprentice. That is the only brand I would use. It was/ is a painter's primary tool. Glazed a lot of old windows too. About 40 years ago.
Smile Always in my putty knife pocket. Wedge, scraper, chisel, etc. I always kept a sharp edge on mine. I still have a couple in my tool box. The stiff ones. I don't think you can get the wooden handled ones any longer.
BontzSawWorks.net
Reply
#30
(03-23-2020, 06:06 PM)wmickley Wrote: Nobody else has ever heard of a kerfing chisel either, Arlin. Regular chisels work just fine. 

I have been making lipped drawers for over forty years. I use a 1/4 inch chisel and a 5/8 chisel (or 3/4) to clean out the sockets. Here in Pennsylvania we have been making lipped drawers for 300 years. 
Smile

Did you watch the video?

Doug
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.