Different DC question
#11
I currently have my DC ejecting directly outside and have done this by making a wood panel for a window that the hose goes through.  I want to purchase a clear-vue DC and when I do I want to relocate the exit from my shop and have the entire unit outside.  My question is this...........how would you recommend cutting a hole in corragated steel for the 6 inch pipe so that I can get away from a window exit.  I dont want it rust up or leak air.  Would the unit need an enclosure or roof to protect it from the elements?  I appreciate all the input


Wayne,

PA
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#12
Wayne
you can buy a 6 inch hole saw
i am told that HF has them on there web sight
i bought mine years back at HD so i do not know that HF has one
and i used a flashing made for steel siding/roofing to seal my exit pipe the flashing is available at most any hardware /lumber yard
i believe it is just called pluming flashing. molds to the siding and fits tight to the pipe comes in a lot of sizes
the one i bought was big enough to have been used over a square hole that one could cut with a skill saw
i marked then removed the steel siding first and drilled it on the flat i was Leary of doing that up in the air on a ladder
of course that will not work if the siding is not readily removed as mine was
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#13
The DC will need cover, even if you get the new steel model, the motor is only ODP (open dip proof). It gets more important if you get the polycarbonate model, they have some MDF which would certainly not do well in the weather. So I doubt just a roof would do, you'd need a shed type structure. As for the hole, I'd probably use a sabre saw with a metal cutting blade.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#14
Would the polycarbonate separator become brittle in freezing winter temperatures?
The clearvue has plenty of suction to suck up pieces of scrap wood. Could a piece of wood break the plastic if the plastic was frozen?
Maybe the warmer shop air blowing thru the dust collector would negate the cold winter tempatures.

With the dust collector outside, in the winter you will be blowing a lot of warm air outside, and be replacing the shop air with cold air seeping in. Hopefully your heating with wood.
My .02
Karl




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#15
(04-17-2020, 09:58 PM)measure once cut remeasure Wrote: Would the polycarbonate separator become brittle in freezing winter temperatures?
The clearvue has plenty of suction to suck up pieces of scrap wood.  Could a piece of wood break the plastic if the plastic was frozen?
Maybe the warmer shop air blowing thru the dust collector would negate the cold winter tempatures.

With the dust collector outside, in the winter you will be blowing a lot of warm air outside,  and be replacing the shop air with cold air seeping in. Hopefully your heating with wood.

My DC is inside but vents directly out a window, with another window open across the shop for makeup air.  I've been doing this for more than 2 years, summer and winter.  I live in the NE and 10° is not uncommon in the winter.  I've never had a problem with the temp. dropping off very much in the shop even though I often run the DC non stop for an hour or more.  I do have baseboard hot water heat in my shop, but the added cost to run it over when I returned the DC's air back into the shop is minimal, less than $10/month.  There is so much mass in the shop walls, floor, and materials in the shop that the drop in air temp. while running the DC has little real overall impact.  

John
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#16
(04-21-2020, 09:41 AM)jteneyck Wrote: My DC is inside but vents directly out a window, with another window open across the shop for makeup air.  I've been doing this for more than 2 years, summer and winter.  I live in the NE and 10° is not uncommon in the winter.  I've never had a problem with the temp. dropping off very much in the shop even though I often run the DC non stop for an hour or more.  I do have baseboard hot water heat in my shop, but the added cost to run it over when I returned the DC's air back into the shop is minimal, less than $10/month.  There is so much mass in the shop walls, floor, and materials in the shop that the drop in air temp. while running the DC has little real overall impact. 

Other than the baseboard heat, which I don't have, my experience is exactly the same as yours.  I don't usually open a window for makeup air in the winter, and just let it seep in through all the cracks in the house, unless I'm going to run it for longer than a minute or two.  In that case, I open the other casement window to let air directly into the shop without sucking much heat out of the rest of the house.

The basement is normally in the low-60's year-round, which is a nice temperature for shop work, so even after sucking warm air out, it tends to warm back up from both the ground and the floor above.  

I also have an antique 16" window fan in the other window, which coincidentally is running right now as my youngest is applying a stinky poly finish to some parallettes he made, but in this case I didn't open any windows because he wants to keep it warm(ish) in there, so it's just sucking a little air from the rest of the house.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#17
(04-17-2020, 03:14 PM)Wayne G. Wrote: I currently have my DC ejecting directly outside and have done this by making a wood panel for a window that the hose goes through.  I want to purchase a clear-vue DC and when I do I want to relocate the exit from my shop and have the entire unit outside.  My question is this...........how would you recommend cutting a hole in corragated steel for the 6 inch pipe so that I can get away from a window exit.  I dont want it rust up or leak air.  Would the unit need an enclosure or roof to protect it from the elements?  I appreciate all the input


Wayne,

PA

I would use a Sawzall or a saber saw to cut the hole. A 6" hole saw needs a powerful drill, a long the lines of a Milwaukee hole shooter. Easy to hurt your wrist if the teeth catch. Don't ask me how I know. I think if you made a collar to fit over the pipe, then stuffed backer rod in the recessed areas of the corrugation and then calked it. You can probably get a sheet metal collar instead of making one.
I worked in a shop that blew the dust outside. Every so often my boss would shovel the sawdust into trash bags. I talked him into building a large box on wheels and blow the dust into the box. Another fellow  came up with the best idea, HF trailer ,put the box on it . The trailer dumped by raising the tongue with a scaffold and lever chain hoist that hung from a 4x6  across the scaffold.
mike
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#18
Unless the cyclone will be totally enclosed in something outside - this is a BAD idea.

The UV light will destroy that cyclone.
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#19
Sabre saw with a metal cutting blade will work just fine.

As far as cover, I only covered the motor from the elements. You may want to put a structure up with at least a roof over yours.
I've never missed any *pumping out warm air* in my 3500sqft shop running the collector hours at a time.
Mine has been out in the elements for at least 15 or more years. Probably closer to 20.


   

The motor cover is still off here. Just got done removing the old and installing the new blower in this picture.

   
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#20
UV light doesn't really affect metal.    Clear plastic is another matter entirely.  

And that's what ClearVue is made of.
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