A Gigantic Shooting Board!
#21
Curt, in theory, you could plane a projecting edge down to the side of the platform if the board was fixed. That means it would need to be clamped down. In practice, planing hard end grain this way is too difficult.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#22
Excellent Derek!
I recall some many years ago building a LONG shooting board of similar dimensions... the aim was to compensate for my inability to get a true edge for jointing boards.
It was a long way from the elegance and quality of your construction, but the results completely met my expectations.
I was using the LN #9, and that worked well.
I recall presenting my 'shooting board' on a German forum (woodworking.de). The general response was ridicule, which I thought amusing, as I see nothing wrong (in fact everything right) in using jigs to improve speed and accuracy.
Can I get a detailed step-by-step with dimensions.... I would be in that project straight (pardon the pun) away.
gerard
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#23
Redicule on using jigs? Those forum people must have a very boring life.

Simon
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#24
Quote:Can I get a detailed step-by-step with dimensions

Gerard my good friend. Long time no hear!

You do not really need measurements, surely?! I do not know what they are. From memory: 880mm full length and 750mm to the fence. 450mm total width. I think that the platform is 300mm. 

There are build details on this thread.

Here's one picture I did not post (there were too many photos already) - preparing the panels ...

[Image: Y1a.jpg]

The JessEm hold downs pull the work piece against the fence. This creates a very clean cut - absolutely glue ready if joining boards.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#25
Derek,
  I hear you about the exhaustion from trying to maintain interaction over remote conferences...

But, what I wanted to ask is if you diagnosed how Cosman's drawer remake still ended up with a bit of twist after glue-up?

Matt
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#26
Matt, while one side of the drawer case had some irregularities, I think that his way of transferring tails to pins is vulnerable to creating errors. He does it this way (I suspect) because it creates a way for his students to saw accurately - the kerf is cut for them before they begin sawing the pins. However, this is completed "blind" (you cannot see what you are sawing/marking). The corrected (2nd) drawer front was more complicated, and his alignment of the side to the drawer front or back (not sure which) was not square.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#27
(05-09-2020, 11:41 AM)Derek Cohen Wrote:  I think that his way of transferring tails to pins is vulnerable to creating errors.
Are you referring to offsetting the board by a kerf width and then starting the kerf?


Nice shooting board, btw.
I noticed that you were doing the rip cut with the fence (as opposed to the sliding table).
Do you need to have the board entirely off the sliding table to get a square cut?

Matt
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#28
(05-09-2020, 07:28 PM)mdhills Wrote: Are you referring to offsetting the board by a kerf width and then starting the kerf?


Nice shooting board, btw.
I noticed that you were doing the rip cut with the fence (as opposed to the sliding table).
Do you need to have the board entirely off the sliding table to get a square cut?

Matt

Hi Matt

First question: yes

Second question: When using the rip fence, I just remove the crosscut fence and lock the slider.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#29
Another nice, well thought-out project, Derek! As for the "modern era", inches, feet and pounds have worked pretty well over here in the ole US of A for quite some time now - hope it doesn't change anytime soon (despite efforts otherwise).

Doug
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#30
This must have been built for the 40+-inch, 3" bladed cooper's plane you made a while back....
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