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I have a Jet 14" bandsaw. I had a lower tire come off, but glued it back onto the wheel. Put on a new woodslicer and the bandsaw was resawing like a champ, that is until that lower tire came off again. Ordered new urethane tires, put them on, and the that blade would not cut at all. When the tire came off, the blade went into the guard and and messed up the teeth. I used a dremel and hit the teeth with a chainsaw sharpening bit. I was able to resaw what I needed for the moment, but it was not a good cut. Any hope for this woodslicer, or should I just order a new one?
What would have caused the tire to come off? Too much tension? I am pretty sure I had the tension set per common instructions.
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Woodslicers don't last long long under the best of circumstances.
They cut beautifully and fast when fresh, but that just isn't long.
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(05-30-2020, 07:32 PM)Phil Thien Wrote: Woodslicers don't last long long under the best of circumstances.
They cut beautifully and fast when fresh, but that just isn't long.
I have tried others, but the woodslicers seem to work real well when sharp. Running the teeth into the guard does not help though. Now I need a new blade, but I am thinking that maybe a jig that holds the dremel for a consistent grind on the teeth.
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Curious to know what width blade was on the saw when these troubles appeared.
Any free advice given is worth double price paid.
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The old tire probably came off because it was old. The rubber tires on my 14" Delta would stretch if I left the blade under tension constantly. The tires never came off but the wheels would vibrate like crazy. I thought the bearings were bad before I figured out the rea problem. I replaced the tires with Urethane ones and have had no more problems even leaving the blade under tension. I suspect you will have no further problems either. Just put a new blade on it and call it good. You might want to look into a bimetal blade, too. Woodslicers cut really well but their lack of durability quickly soured me on them.
John
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(05-30-2020, 09:59 PM)Woodenfish Wrote: Curious to know what width blade was on the saw when these troubles appeared.
It was a 1/2". The saw has a tension release bar, but I usually forget to release it, or re-engage it when I getting ready to cut.
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At around $30 I would say you have already spent too much time on a blade that will wear out soon anyway. I have a couple of woodslicers and use them when I want a really thin kerf. I find it more reasonable to use the as specialty blades since they wear out pretty quickly. I consider them a wear part like brakes on a car. They last long enough to be worth the cost but, they don't last forever.
When I was young I sought the wisdom of the ages. Now it seems I've found the wiz-dumb of the age-ed.
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(05-30-2020, 08:59 PM)Scoony Wrote: I have tried others, but the woodslicers seem to work real well when sharp. Running the teeth into the guard does not help though. Now I need a new blade, but I am thinking that maybe a jig that holds the dremel for a consistent grind on the teeth.
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I started sharpening BS blades more than 15yrs ago and posted my method on this forum. All done freehand with a diamond burr. Jigs make the process take much longer without real benefit...Check the point on the teeth...If you can SEE the point, it is dull.....if crashing into the guard damaged the "set", the blade is toast.
Often Tested. Always Faithful. Brothers Forever
Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
