DC Layout
#11
I'm working out the ductwork for a 5hp Cyclone to service a panel saw, miter, 14 and 18 bs, dp and edge sander. Purple is 8" pipe (the recommended main size for my machine) and green is 6".

All of my verticals are 6" since most machines will have 2 4" ports (or so). 

What mistakes am I making? I'm a tad suspicious about those two lines down for both BS's--is that overkill? Would you make any changes?

Drawing 1

Drawing 2

Drawing 3
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#12
My main line is a 7”. For the bandsaw, I dropped a single 6” pipe using a 7-6-7 wye and then used a 6-5-5 wye at the end of the drop (about 4 feet off the floor). I put blast gates on the wye and then ran flex to the two bs ports with a 5” to 4” reducer on the machine. Other than that, your layout makes sense to me.
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#13
I think the way you have it is just fine, should work very well. As for the band saws, one drop would work fine if each saw has it's own take-off and blast gate.....but I wouldn't say 2 drops is overkill.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#14
(06-03-2020, 03:39 PM)Murray M Wrote: What mistakes am I making? I'm a tad suspicious about those two lines down for both BS's--is that overkill? Would you make any changes?

Drawing 1

Drawing 2

Drawing 3

I have heard Oneida say they want 5 feet of straight pipe coming out of the cyclone.  Having a tilt right at the mouth may not cause an issue.  I'm no flow engineer.

I think it being a 5 hp you will be fine.
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#15
(06-10-2020, 04:10 PM)bbrickey Wrote: I have heard Oneida say they want 5 feet of straight pipe coming out of the cyclone.  Having a tilt right at the mouth may not cause an issue.  I'm no flow engineer.

I think it being a 5 hp you will be fine.

My understanding is that the straight pipe is to optimize the separation in the cyclone, rather than to avoid static pressure.


Seems like it would be a good idea to offer a cyclone with the motor to the side -- so the inlet could be at the top (close to the ceiling where a lot of hobby shops route their ducts) and also allowing for installations with lower ceiling heights.

Matt
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#16
(06-10-2020, 10:29 PM)mdhills Wrote: My understanding is that the straight pipe is to optimize the separation in the cyclone, rather than to avoid static pressure.

True that^^. You don't want the air entering the cyclone with turbulence, so the straight pipe allows it to smooth out. But truthfully, we do what we have to do and that's (straight pipe entry) not always possible.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#17
(06-11-2020, 05:17 AM)fredhargis Wrote: True that^^. You don't want the air entering the cyclone with turbulence, so the straight pipe allows it to smooth out. But truthfully, we do what we have to do and that's (straight pipe entry) not always possible.


"Do what we have to do" indeed.

I'm willfully ignoring the 5' rule because 1) I'm too close to my panel saw and panel storage and I need more ceiling space there, 2) I have the rare opportunity to be running a stronger DC motor than I need (CL deal!) and 3) I called Oneida, showed them these plans and asked about the 5' rule and they didn't blink--said I'd be fine.
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#18
(06-11-2020, 05:47 AM)Murray M Wrote: "Do what we have to do" indeed.

I'm willfully ignoring the 5' rule because 1) I'm too close to my panel saw and panel storage and I need more ceiling space there, 2) I have the rare opportunity to be running a stronger DC motor than I need (CL deal!) and 3) I called Oneida, showed them these plans and asked about the 5' rule and they didn't blink--said I'd be fine.

The drawings look like you have some more ceiling clearance at the DC. If that is the case, you could consider making the base taller.

If you can't do that, consider use a curved section to connect to the DC. It could be a drawing artifact, but it looks like your drawing has an abrupt angle between the first pipe and the DC.

The first 2 Y's are really close together. The system might draw better if you can use Y's/forks where the straight section is the 8" and the side fudge is 6". I suspect that you would get better draw and less organ-piping if you can do that.

Are you going to run distribution tubes for the air compressor at the same time (since you are already doing the pipe-hanging work and you could tie the tubes to the DC pipes) ?
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#19
(06-16-2020, 12:15 AM)iclark Wrote: The drawings look like you have some more ceiling clearance at the DC. If that is the case, you could consider making the base taller.

If you can't do that, consider use a curved section to connect to the DC. It could be a drawing artifact, but it looks like your drawing has an abrupt angle between the first pipe and the DC.

The first 2 Y's are really close together. The system might draw better if you can use Y's/forks where the straight section is the 8" and the side fudge is 6". I suspect that you would get better draw and less organ-piping if you can do that.

Are you going to run distribution tubes for the air compressor at the same time (since you are already doing the pipe-hanging work and you could tie the tubes to the DC pipes) ?

1) Base taller: interesting idea. The trade off is that the DC would be hard to service. Right now I've got enough space to winch the motor off if need be. Question: is this trade off worth it? It's a Balder motor in good shape--take the risk?

2) Y's: are you recommending 2 8" main pipes?

3) AC tubes simultaneously: good idea.
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#20
(06-20-2020, 08:03 AM)Murray M Wrote: 1) Base taller: interesting idea. The trade off is that the DC would be hard to service. Right now I've got enough space to winch the motor off if need be. Question: is this trade off worth it? It's a Balder motor in good shape--take the risk?

2) Y's: are you recommending 2 8" main pipes?

3) AC tubes simultaneously: good idea.

1) how much does the motor need to lift to clear? With a taller base, you could tie the motor to the ceiling and pull out the base riser when you need to do maintenance.

2) In drawing one, I am suggesting that the first 2 Y's be purple on the straight and green on the split-off (calling it that since we cannot say f o r k). I think that that would give better flow through the main pipe and less turbulence from the merging flow(s).

3) it was your putting the compressor close to the DC that reminded me of that.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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