Electrical Question
#18
(07-08-2020, 10:34 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: So you're saying splice the 2 hot wires together and connect them to the light fixture? Do this on all 3 lights?

Jim

Yes.  The light fixture has two leads on it. If it doesn't, connect your own as TDKPE described and color code them.  White is neutral and unswitched, black is hot (or in your case the switched wire).  The white on the light fixture gets connected to the white wires in the box.  Black on the light fixture gets connected to the black wires in the box.  The third box most likely isn't working because of a loose splice at box #2.

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#19
(07-08-2020, 10:39 AM)crokett™ Wrote: Yes.  The light fixture has two leads on it. If it doesn't, connect your own as TDKPE described and color code them.  White is neutral and unswitched, black is hot (or in your case the switched wire).  The white on the light fixture gets connected to the white wires in the box.  Black on the light fixture gets connected to the black wires in the box.  The third box most likely isn't working because of a loose splice at box #2.

Crockett;

Thanks, I was aware of these things except I just never heard of splicing the hot wires and I just wanted to make sure I read your reply correctly.
BTW it worked and everything is up and running>

Jim
Jim
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#20
When I use the push in connectors with stranded wire,, I solder the end of the stranded wire before pushing it in. That seems to make a good secure connection.
shifty
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#21
(07-11-2020, 02:04 PM)shifty Wrote: When I use the push in connectors with stranded wire,, I solder the end of the stranded wire before pushing it in. That seems to make a good secure connection.

The only stranded wire that I encounter is pigtails on light fixtures, etc.  Since I don't want those in a push in connector anyway, I use a solid wire jumper to the pigtail and then a wire nut.  The disadvantage to the push in connector is it's not as easily reversible as a wire nut.

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#22
(07-11-2020, 06:19 PM)crokett™ Wrote: The only stranded wire that I encounter is pigtails on light fixtures, etc.  Since I don't want those in a push in connector anyway, I use a solid wire jumper to the pigtail and then a wire nut.  The disadvantage to the push in connector is it's not as easily reversible as a wire nut.


           I'm tempted to start using the shoelace crimps on stranded wire. It's virtually unknown here in the US but common place in europe course we are always the last to get tech over here for some reason...

             Ever so often I see them in vent fans and other commercial stuff like vent fans that are made for Europe and the US market. They also put brown and blue wire and the guys always ask which one is the neutral if they are wanting to run it on 120v...
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#23
(07-11-2020, 06:19 PM)crokett™ Wrote: The only stranded wire that I encounter is pigtails on light fixtures, etc.  Since I don't want those in a push in connector anyway, I use a solid wire jumper to the pigtail and then a wire nut.  The disadvantage to the push in connector is it's not as easily reversible as a wire nut.

I use the regular Wago for solid.
I use the LeverNuts for stranded.

   
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#24
(07-08-2020, 10:21 AM)TDKPE Wrote: I didn't see it mentioned, so in case you're not aware, be sure to wire the socket shell to the neutral, and the little spring tab in the center to the hot.  Check with a multimeter (to ground) after the fact to be sure if the wires are not color coded, which they should be.

Got zapped by table lamps plenty of times as a kid in the days of unpolarized plugs and receptacles.  
Big eek

We have a lot of bright guys around this site but what you hear from TDKPE is considered gospel when it comes to electrical.
1st class birdhouse builder/scrapwood mfg.
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