Kitchen paring knife
#9
Mods, if not in the proper forum, please advise...
Stopped in to visit my mother at lunchtime and saw the knife she was using. Plastic handle, but full tang, part of a very nice set of kitchen cutlery. I guess the knife handle ended up against the heating element of the dishwasher (looks like a number of times) and is near mortally wounded. I would like to re-handle the knife, but the rivets are one-pc. As a result, not sure whether to go with a composite/epoxy handle shaped to fit, or attempt one in wood with an epoxy filler at the rivets.  
Suggestions?
I have repaired the teardrop handle of a vintage Biesemeyer fence to near perfection with JB Weld. If wood, suggestion on material...white oak, walnut, teak, cherry, brazilian cherry/ipe, other???

Thanks in advance
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#10
I'm not sure if I'm following you, Brian.  You say the rivets are one piece, as in part of the blade?  Regardless, I think I'd cut them off and drill holes for cutler's rivets to replace them.  As far as material for the handle, I would be looking for micarta scales or some type of infused wood that is more likely to survive mom putting them in the dishwasher.  A search for knife scales on the internet turns up lots of sources and you should be able to find cutler's rivets in the small parts boxes at your lumber yard or hardware store.
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#11
(10-20-2020, 02:22 PM)Phil S. Wrote: I'm not sure if I'm following you, Brian.  You say the rivets are one piece, as in part of the blade?  Regardless, I think I'd cut them off and drill holes for cutler's rivets to replace them.  As far as material for the handle, I would be looking for micarta scales or some type of infused wood that is more likely to survive mom putting them in the dishwasher.  A search for knife scales on the internet turns up lots of sources and you should be able to find cutler's rivets in the small parts boxes at your lumber yard or hardware store.

I have not removed the melted plastic yet, but the rivets appear to be one with the blade...Hadn't thought about removing/replacing them...
Thanks
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#12
Hi Brian

There is a pictorial on my website about rehandling Sabatier knives: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeToo...block.html

[Image: EBE8197-D-3958-4-B24-B4-CC-B80-D2061-F4-E0.png]

[Image: 2-FCC7-A43-8-D37-43-B7-88-C7-7-F3-C9-E7-B3-B01.png]

No longer washable in a dishwasher!

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#13
I have rehandled a few kitchen knives, did one this last weekend.  Usually, the first step is to remove the handle material, in any way you can, then hacksaw off the rivets.  If it is a typical kitchen knife, you can then just make scales and epoxy new ones on, no need for rivets.  If you are making a knife for a Forged in Fire competition, you need the rivets to withstand the abuse they do in testing, in a normal kitchen, totally unnecessary.  I did use rivets on the last one for looks, but it presented problems in getting them exactly flush -  you will need to use a file -  sanding will remove wood but leave the rivet a little proud.  Also,  if you are going to stain the wood, then you need to be careful to remove the stain from the rivets.  Once you get it stained, you can put a clear finish on the knife and it should be good to go.  Another option is to use a wood that does not need any stain or finish.  My personal favorite is brazilian cherry  - at least that is what the flooring manufacturer called it,   it has a good grip without a finish, and wipes clean easily.
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#14
Thank you to Phil, Derek and Barry.
Many options it appears.
Brian
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#15
(10-20-2020, 07:05 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: I have rehandled a few kitchen knives, did one this last weekend.  Usually, the first step is to remove the handle material, in any way you can, then hacksaw off the rivets.  If it is a typical kitchen knife, you can then just make scales and epoxy new ones on, no need for rivets.  If you are making a knife for a Forged in Fire competition, you need the rivets to withstand the abuse they do in testing, in a normal kitchen, totally unnecessary.  I did use rivets on the last one for looks, but it presented problems in getting them exactly flush -  you will need to use a file -  sanding will remove wood but leave the rivet a little proud.  Also,  if you are going to stain the wood, then you need to be careful to remove the stain from the rivets.  Once you get it stained, you can put a clear finish on the knife and it should be good to go.  Another option is to use a wood that does not need any stain or finish.  My personal favorite is brazilian cherry  - at least that is what the flooring manufacturer called it,   it has a good grip without a finish, and wipes clean easily.

.....................................
If it is a typical kitchen knife, you can then just make scales and epoxy new ones on, no need for rivets.

Using JB Weld, rivets will not be needed..in the "olden days", cocobolo was a very common wood for kitchen knives...but there are many other tropical hardwoods that are suitable.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
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#16
Brian,  wanted to add that if you go with epoxy for the scales, and a through tang - meaning exposed all the way, the easiest way for me is to epoxy a blank scale on one side and clamp it.  Once dry, use a bandsaw, or even a chisel, to trim the blank to within a 1/16 of the profile of the tang, which is easy because you can see the tang.  Then when you epoxy the other side on,  once it is dry, repeat - though you can't see the tang, just trim it even with the other side.  When that is done, you can use a scraper and or a sander to get the blanks flush with the edges of the tang.
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