Disston Townman Saw

[dow]

When my in-laws sold their house several years back, I got petty much all of their tools (which sounds great, but is actually not worth talking about). Anyway, there was this rusty handsaw that I brought home, put away, and promptly forgot about. Two nights ago,I was out in the shop, and noticed the handle sticking out from behind the hanging shelves where I put it four years ago.

So I got it out and looked it over. It's a Disston Townsman. The blade is 26" long, 8 poi, and the handle is really plain. It doesn't really have an etch. It looks more like a silk screen logo. I'll try to get some pictures up later, but right now the plate is marinating in WD-40 in hopes of getting it cleaned up better.

Can anybody tell me anything about this saw?

[Bill_Houghton]

Postwar, most likely - probably 50s.  Sold to homeowners.  If I recall correctly, they had a "Rancher" line, too; not sure what the difference was.  Still, clean it up and see how it cuts.  Check it first, though, by sighting along the tooth line; if it's bent much, it'll make you nuts.  A long, slow, gentle curve won't get in your way, but a sudden shift in direction will.

And I assume, in your first paragraph, you meant "rusty HANDsaw." If you're hiding a bandsaw from us, well...

[Admiral]

Handle is ugly (but a rasp can handle that), hang might not be optimal, but steel is likely ok; put a mic on it to see if the plate was tapered. Sharpen it up, it will likely give ok service.

[dow]

Postwar, most likely - probably 50s.  Sold to homeowners.  If I recall correctly, they had a "Rancher" line, too; not sure what the difference was.  Still, clean it up and see how it cuts.  Check it first, though, by sighting along the tooth line; if it's bent much, it'll make you nuts.  A long, slow, gentle curve won't get in your way, but a sudden shift in direction will.

And I assume, in your first paragraph, you meant "rusty HANDsaw."  If you're hiding a bandsaw from us, well...

Oops. Samsung auto correct was "helping" me. It's fixed now.


It's got a slight bend about 3/4 of the way toward the tip.  Not a kink, and you don't notice it when it's just laying there, but you can see it if you sight down the blade.

[dow]

Handle is ugly (but a rasp can handle that), hang might not be optimal, but steel is likely ok; put a mic on it to see if the plate was tapered.  Sharpen it up, it will likely give ok service.

Thanks Rich.

So if it's tapered, then it'll be thicker at the tooth line and thinner along the spine, right?

What's a good way to get it cleaned up?  A lot of it is just discoloration, but there is a little heavier rust in places.  I don't think it's anything that will affect how it cuts, but it would be nice to get it looking better than it does. All I've done so far is hit it with WE-40 and 0000 steel wool.

On the sharpening front, I guess I'll need to scare up a saw vise and some files.  The learning never ends, does it.

[bandit571]

Methinks this was a part of a later Keystone line of saws...   they even sold a backsaw in the set....I think the Rancher was the rip version...Dad used to have the Townsman saw....

   
Handle for the Townsman...and a photo of the K1 Backsaw..

   
And a look at the full "etch"...

   
Appears these were from the H.K. Porter era of the mid 1950s....
"Disston Division   H.K.  Porter"

[Admiral]

Thanks Rich.

So if it's tapered, then it'll be thicker at the tooth line and thinner along the spine, right?

What's a good way to get it cleaned up?  A lot of it is just discoloration, but there is a little heavier rust in places.  I don't think it's anything that will affect how it cuts, but it would be nice to get it looking better than it does.  All I've done so far is hit it with WE-40 and 0000 steel wool.

On the sharpening front, I guess I'll need to scare up a saw vise and some files.  The learning never ends, does it.

Right, thicker at tooth line, thinner at spine.  I take a single edge razor blade in a holder and scrape it at an angle to remove the gross rust and gunk, then sand with 220 grit, lubed with windex (less smelly than MS and just as effective) and work up the grits until it looks good, then steel wool or scotchbrite. Always sand with the "grain", e.g., from heel to toe, toe to heel, not up and down. If I want to get really anal retentive, I polish with a good metal polish like Autosol (usually only on vintage saws), then a coat of wax.  I do not use any chemicals like acids or evaporust on saw plates, and don't know any reputable sawsmiths who do.