Bandsaw Maintenance/Lubrication
#11
I moved to the coast ~ 18 months ago and finally finished setting up the garage to be a woodworking shop.

I have set up the jointer, planer, drill press to make sure everything is aligned and square as needed.  Working on the MM16 BS alignment today.

I have noticed more rust here than when I lived inland so I wax the cast iron table surfaces every couple of months. Same thing with hand tools.

The surface rust is especially heavy on my bandsaw guidepost and telescoping blade guard.  

I am going to clean up with scrub pads/very light sandpaper.

What lubrication should I be doing and can you recommend oil or grease to lubricate the guide, blade guard, etc?

Do I need to grease any components?

Chuck
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#12
Once you get the rust cleaned off, Johnson's paste wax or other similar wax works well and is inexpensive. There are a number of other products on the market for the purpose at varying prices. I don't think they work significantly better.
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#13
(12-12-2020, 03:38 PM)Willyou Wrote: Once you get the rust cleaned off, Johnson's paste wax or other similar wax works well and is inexpensive. There are a number of other products on the market for the purpose at varying prices. I don't think they work significantly better.

+1 for Johnson's paste wax. My basement shop is 80 feet from salt water, no rust issues with routine waxing every couple months.

g
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#14
I have always used JPW on chisels, planes, saws, and cast iron surfaces on Jointer, Planer, TS, DP and have not had any problems with them rusting.

But I had not been waxing the other bare metal surfaces of the machines - guide rods, telescoping guides, columns, etc.

I used a little 3 in 1 oil on fine steel wool and rubbed out the surface rust, then wiped down with a clean rag.  Looks much better. 

Do you use JPW on these other parts or just use a light oil coating?
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#15
I use light oil....wax.....whatever is handy at the moment.
Steve

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#16
CorrosionX HD Got turned on to the stuff when I was saltwater fishing. All I will say is that nothing I have treated with CorrosionX HD has ever rusted. I wipe done the cast iron generally once a year. I spray the stuff on a rag to wipe down my hand tools.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#17
(12-12-2020, 09:16 PM)cputnam Wrote: CorrosionX HD  Got turned on to the stuff when I was saltwater fishing.  All I will say is that nothing I have treated with CorrosionX HD has ever rusted.  I wipe done the cast iron generally once a year.  I spray the stuff on a rag to wipe down my hand tools.

Curt, I have not heard of that stuff and may give it a try. Have you had any residue problems with finishing from using it? To the OP, my current solution (like so many others) is Johnson's. One of the woodworking magazines did a review of paste waxes (believe it or not) and tested maybe 20 different brands. In his opinion, the JPW was the best available....take it for what its worth.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#18
(12-13-2020, 06:41 AM)fredhargis Wrote: Curt, I have not heard of that stuff and may give it a try. Have you had any residue problems with finishing from using it? To the OP, my current solution (like so many others) is Johnson's. One of the woodworking magazines did a review of paste waxes (believe it or not) and tested maybe 20 different brands. In his opinion, the JPW was the best available....take it for what its worth.
The only issue I've found with it so far is on the fence rods of my Veritas skew rabbit plane. It has lubed them so well that they no longer hold adjustment. For something like a new table saw top, I would apply thickly and then leave it overnight. Same thing next day. Next day - wipe to down hard. Even though I do not believe in JPW for rust protection, I do love they it makes a top feel silky smooth. It is possible that the wax covered up any residue. I also wax my plane soles so that would cover any residue there also.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#19
(12-12-2020, 09:16 PM)cputnam Wrote: CorrosionX HD  Got turned on to the stuff when I was saltwater fishing.  All I will say is that nothing I have treated with CorrosionX HD has ever rusted.  I wipe done the cast iron generally once a year.  I spray the stuff on a rag to wipe down my hand tools.

Curt - I've never heard of CorrisionX HD.  I do a LOT of saltwater fishing.  Going to try it on my boat.  

I wonder if it is a cure for needle-nose pliers rust lockjaw?


Chuck
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#20
(12-15-2020, 01:12 PM)Chuck in NC Wrote: Curt - I've never heard of CorrisionX HD.  I do a LOT of saltwater fishing.  Going to try it on my boat.  

I wonder if it is a cure for needle-nose pliers rust lockjaw?


Chuck
Out here, on the left coast, it dykes (diagonal cutting pliers) that everyone carries.  Had a deckhand confound me taking a rusted shut pair and chucking them in the bait tank overnight - and they worked in the morning!

Anyway, don't think the stuff is effective on aluminum, but all steels seem to be helped.  Last I knew, the stiff was made in NC.  Back in the day when I was repping tackle, I sold quite a bit of it to the landings.  In particular, get some on the gears of your reels.  Experiment with how the reel runs with grease and degreased but sprayed down with CX HD.  Clean your bait knife and leave it coated with the stuff overnight.  Don't misunderstand me, regular maintenance is still required, just less of it in my experience.

CoorsionX HD
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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