All about scrapers

[Timberwolf]

Paul Hamler/Bob Page

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVh1QK6km2Q&t=1615s

[Handplanesandmore]

Paul Hamler vid - I never ever press the burnisher hard on the edge like that! A small hook is a strong hook.

Simon

[tablesawtom]

The amount of carbon in steel determines if steel will harden or not. so it depend on the steel in the scraper. And not all steel is created equal. I doubt the work hardening of steel in a scraper blade. In my 50 years of my working with tool steel, my only experience with work hardening steel is brake die steel.  And I do not know the AISI number. It was always special order and it needed a longer lead time.

Also since the angle is set in a scraper like a Stanley 80 one has to be very careful not to roll the burr past the effective cutting angle or it will not work and one will have to start over. ON the Stanley 112 ( I believe that is the number) and the LN scraper the head is adjustable so the cutting angle can be found. On a hand scraper one works with the scraper until the edges is found.

I think Veritas made or makes an insert for a plane so it can be made into a scraper which is what I think I saw in the video but I have no experience with it. I had a LN scraper plane but found I preferred the Stanley 80 so I sold it.

I use the scraper jig from Woodsmith. It holds the file and the cutting edge in proper relationship, controls the angle and just a light pressure on the edge makes a wonderful tool. If not enough edge it can be rolled again because the angle remains constant.

Heavy pressure doesn't work for me. Tried it but prefer light pressure. If you are new to using a good quality scraper and the Woodsmith scraper jig is a hard combo to beat. The scraper that comes with the  jig is stainless steel and is worthless in my opinion.

If you are new to scraping, control your angles is a must and light pressure.  One can always put on more pressure but if you want to lighten it up the whole cutting edge has to be reworked. 

Tom

[rwe2156]

Card scraper prep is a weak point with me.

I've watched to many videos, I guess the one I like best is William Ng.

But they all make it look easy and then 1-2" long shavings makes me want to cry.

Burnisher pressure I've never gotten down.

Some guys look like they're really bearing down, others not so much.

But, I can turn an edge, I can get shavings, but the best I can achieve doesn't seem to stack up to the pros.

My process is: file, hone at 800, 1250 (diamond) and 4000 water stone.

Hold card flat on table and burnish parallel to face 10-12 strokes each side.

Start at 90 then tilt burnisher 2-3° each side.

[Handplanesandmore]

Card scraper prep is a weak point with me.


But they all make it look easy and then 1-2" long shavings makes me want to cry.

Your weak point, based on what you described, is something else, not your prep. The steps you laid out are perfectly fine.

My guess is that the way you hold (how your position your fingers behind the scraper, if you push), how much you bend, and how steady you go (you won't get long shavings if the card trails off half way) are the main reasons why you can't get wide and continuous shavings. The more you bend, the narrower the shavings are, and when coupled with a hard downward push, you could be dishing the surface. Pulling a scraper would prevent that dishing.

Sometimes, the right strokes are pull, not push. Between pulling and pushing, most people find it easier to do the latter, but pulling --- harder to master at the beginning --- is actually a better way of scraping in various situations.

Peter Galbert is one of those who really know what they're talking about when it comes to card scrapers. Ignore those youtubers who said you only need a file to hone card scrapers. Like cutting dovetails, the best way to learn that skill is to find someone (who is good at it) to show you in person.

Simon

[Timberwolf]

The amount of carbon in steel determines if steel will harden or not. so it depend on the steel in the scraper. And not all steel is created equal. I doubt the work hardening of steel in a scraper blade. In my 50 years of my working with tool steel, my only experience with work hardening steel is brake die steel.  And I do not know the AISI number. It was always special order and it needed a longer lead time.

Also since the angle is set in a scraper like a Stanley 80 one has to be very careful not to roll the burr past the effective cutting angle or it will not work and one will have to start over. ON the Stanley 112 ( I believe that is the number) and the LN scraper the head is adjustable so the cutting angle can be found. On a hand scraper one works with the scraper until the edges is found.

I think Veritas made or makes an insert for a plane so it can be made into a scraper which is what I think I saw in the video but I have no experience with it. I had a LN scraper plane but found I preferred the Stanley 80 so I sold it.

I use the scraper jig from Woodsmith. It holds the file and the cutting edge in proper relationship, controls the angle and just a light pressure on the edge makes a wonderful tool. If not enough edge it can be rolled again because the angle remains constant.

Heavy pressure doesn't work for me. Tried it but prefer light pressure. If you are new to using a good quality scraper and the Woodsmith scraper jig is a hard combo to beat. The scraper that comes with the  jig is stainless steel and is worthless in my opinion.

If you are new to scraping, control your angles is a must and light pressure.  One can always put on more pressure but if you want to lighten it up the whole cutting edge has to be reworked. 

Tom

.............................
Polished tungsten carbide makes a wonderful burnisher..

[rwe2156]

Your weak point, based on what you described, is something else, not your prep. The steps you laid out are perfectly fine.

My guess is that the way you hold (how your position your fingers behind the scraper, if you push), how much you bend, and how steady you go (you won't get long shavings if the card trails off half way) are the main reasons why you can't get wide and continuous shavings. The more you bend, the narrower the shavings are, and when coupled with a hard downward push, you could be dishing the surface. Pulling a scraper would prevent that dishing.

Sometimes, the right strokes are pull, not push. Between pulling and pushing, most people find it easier to do the latter, but pulling --- harder to master at the beginning --- is actually a better way of scraping in various situations.  

Peter Galbert is one of those who really know what they're talking about when it comes to card scrapers. Ignore those youtubers who said you only need a file to hone card scrapers. Like cutting dovetails, the best way to learn that skill is to find someone (who is good at it) to show you in person.

Simon

Thanks.  I think you may be right re: too much pressure.  Next time I'll focus on that.

[Tony Z]

.............................
Polished tungsten carbide makes a wonderful burnisher..

Darn right it Does, Jack!

For those that want to see what a scraper can do, take the blade out of your smoothing plane, make sure it is "scary sharp" and holding it near vertical of a piece of dry wood, pull towards yourself, with bevel facing away. Now, when you go to prepare your cabinet scraper, do so as you would a plane blade, except with a 45* bevel. For a card scraper, do the same, except with no bevel. For either, take whatever you're using as a burnisher, with the scraper flat on your bench, put a very light dab of 3 in 1 oil on the burnisher, and rub it flat on the scraper, with the same pressure as buttering a piece of toast, creating a burr, that runs with the scraper side. Now, place the scraper in a vise (so it is held vertical), and lightly run the burnisher on the burr, turning it over.

Now experiment with the scraper on the wood you mostly use, and experiment with the method of creating a burr.

[Timberwolf]

Darn right it Does, Jack!

For those that want to see what a scraper can do, take the blade out of your smoothing plane, make sure it is "scary sharp" and holding it near vertical of a piece of dry wood, pull towards yourself, with bevel facing away.  Now, when you go to prepare your cabinet scraper, do so as you would a plane blade, except with a 45* bevel.  For a card scraper, do the same, except with no bevel.  For either, take whatever you're using as a burnisher, with the scraper flat on your bench, put a very light dab of 3 in 1 oil on the burnisher, and rub it flat on the scraper, with the same pressure as buttering a piece of toast, creating a burr, that runs with the scraper side.  Now, place the scraper in a vise (so it is held vertical), and lightly run the burnisher on the burr, turning it over.

Now experiment with the scraper on the wood you mostly use, and experiment with the method of creating a burr.

...........................
I was thinking of you as I typed it, Tony!
And I am thanking you each time I use the one you sent me...!!!!!!! Turns the steel like buttah!!!!! You da man!!!!!

[Ray Newman]

Very informative  video on how to prep a scrapper. Just wish I could get the knack of doing it. Almost makes me want to give it another go, but I cannot remember where my scraper cards are. haven't seen them in a while. 

Thanks for posting that video!