Does anyone have a Dewalt 734 planer out there? I’ve got the green light from my better half but I don’t want to bring one home until I have a cart to put it on. I downloaded the Fisher flip top cart plan (yay, gonna get my spindle sander off of the floor) but I’d like to know if the stated 21” height of the planer includes the crank handle on top. Lowes has them in boxes but not on display. If you have one could you measure the height with the crank and the height without the crank?
(12-10-2022, 10:36 AM)rschissler Wrote: I have one. 17 1/2" without the crank, and 20 1/8" with the crank.
Wow, much shorter than I thought. Thanks for the information. In your opinion would it be a bad idea to remove the crank when I’m done using the planer? It’s not something I expect to use more than once maybe twice a month. Except of course for the first ten days when I’ll be planing every scrap of wood I can find. I’m timing the purchase with my extra long end of year vacation from work. I almost feel sorry for those poor unsuspecting boards.
12-11-2022, 10:50 AM (This post was last modified: 12-11-2022, 10:51 AM by rschissler.)
Is the reason why you would want to remove the handle, to make it fit in the flip box? If so, make the box bigger. However, the planer is very heavy, so flipping it, trying to keep the box upright may not be feasible.
Interesting that I found where someone made one, using the 734. He mentions at the bottom about the weight issue, but I guess it can be done, but you should still think about that aspect. The planer weight is listed at 80 pounds. The link is below. https://www.killianwoodworking.com/diy-f...tool-cart/
I have two flip carts. One for the 735 and one for the SCMS. Both carts are single tool and are stored under my out-feed table. BTW the 735 weighs about 90 lbs., I think, and is not a problem. A little advice, look for ways to add "rigidity".
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
Thanks for the input. I read the Killian story and saw that they used the Fisher cart design. I had already purchased those exact plans this past weekend. I am a little worried about rigidity and stability but I have zero experience with flip top carts. If rigidity becomes an issue I could buttress the sides with some 2” wide strips of 3/4” plywood. Maybe even extend the base 2” to the left and right to give the buttress a perch.
Part of the challenge with a flip cart is making sure that the center of gravity is always between where the castors touch the floor. The castor contact with the floor can be several inches back from the front/rear of the cart. The weight balance needs to be set up for the worst-case castor position.
Also, if you are putting your spindle sander on the flip side, you need to figure out how you are going to store the spindles and sanding sleeves when the sander is upside down.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
I’ll keep the casters close to the corners so I can access the caster locks. That plus I’ll mount both tools in the center of their surfaces to keep each tool centered over the other. The bottom of the cart includes a 6” tall drawer which should hold more than I need. Though I have to admit that I’ve never had all of the belts, sleeves, spindles, belt sanding part, and all of the little parts in one place. I’ll let you all know how it goes and if I make and modifications for improving stability.
I finished the cart yesterday. I made the base 24x30 and set the sides on top of the base, spaced for a 24x24 table top. I added plywood buttresses to each of the sides connecting the sides to the base. The top is three layers of plywood .75/.50/.75. I used a .50 steel rod for the axle. To secure the sides I mounted poplar strips .75 x 1.25 on top and bottom of each side of the table top. I drilled through the side of the cabinet and then through the poplar strips. I used a t-nut on the poplar strips and a 5/16” knob bolt that goes through the side of the cabinet, through the bottom poplar piece and into the t-nut. That means that the sides get bolted to the top so the top is secured with two 5/16” bolts and the 1/2” steel axle on both sides. This is a terrible description but it is crazy strong and rigid. The casters straddle the vertical sides right where the base, side, and buttresses intersect. I’m probably about 150% over engineered, this thing is a tank. Maybe I’ll paint it olive drab and put some 1940s style US Army stenciling on it.
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