Gonna make my daughter a make up table. It will have two drawers on each side of the table and one in the middle (total 5 drawers). I do drawers using my Leigh D4R Pro jig - - and I dread when I have to use the thing. It does do repeatable drawers, but setting it up is almost beyond my patience level. I have ruled out hand-cut dovetails just because it takes me so long to do one drawer. My question is: does/has anyone used the various matching router bits to do drawer joints? Do they have the same strength and longevity of dovetail joints? Good idea? Bad idea? Any comments would be appreciated so thank you in advance.
I have the drawer lock router bits and don't think I've ever used them, but I do cut a lot of drawer lock joints. I use the table saw which just seems a little easier to me. s for longevity, I have no ideabut my guess is that DT joints are about as good as it gets for drawers..that doesn't mean the drawer lock joint isn't good. I've never seen one fail, but I'm only 76. Still if I make something that I think will be heirloom quality I pull out the D4 and cut DT joints. But to be totally honest, I think the only folks who will notice which joint you used are woodworkers.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Have you considered finger joints. Pretty easy to cut on the tablesaw or router table. I use an original Incra Jig on my router table, which allows parts to be ganged together and cut at the same time. Actually, the jig can be used to cut DT's, too, but the pins have to be cut flat, though still on the router table, and some hand trimming is required, too.
02-18-2024, 05:13 PM (This post was last modified: 02-18-2024, 05:14 PM by Dave Diaman.)
What style is the piece. The dovetail joint is always going to be king but with modern day glues a good box joint is probably going to outlast the owner. You can also do a decorative pinned box joint which looks really nice if you use a contrasting wood for the pin. If it is an Arts and Crafts style piece you can even use the joints as decorative accidents like you would see on a G&G style piece. As John said this joint is easily cut on a table saw.
(02-18-2024, 02:55 PM)fredhargis Wrote: I have the drawer lock router bits and don't think I've ever used them, but I do cut a lot of drawer lock joints. I use the table saw which just seems a little easier to me. s for longevity, I have no ideabut my guess is that DT joints are about as good as it gets for drawers..that doesn't mean the drawer lock joint isn't good. I've never seen one fail, but I'm only 76. Still if I make something that I think will be heirloom quality I pull out the D4 and cut DT joints. But to be totally honest, I think the only folks who will notice which joint you used are woodworkers.
This is exactly what I do. I just completed a side job with 12 drawers of varying sizes. All had Blum undermount slides. Easy peasy.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
I wanted to add I have a method for cutting dovetails by hand that’s pretty simple. It’s a hybrid method that uses hand tools and power tools. I’ll try to post a thead on how I do it in the next few days.
(02-18-2024, 08:59 PM)Dave Diaman Wrote: I wanted to add I have a method for cutting dovetails by hand that’s pretty simple. It’s a hybrid method that uses hand tools and power tools. I’ll try to post a thead on how I do it in the next few days.
Thanks Dave - that would be great.
I meant to ask too, what are people using for drawers these days? Plywood, maple? Thx.
(02-19-2024, 08:53 AM)fptahoe Wrote: Thanks Dave - that would be great.
I meant to ask too, what are people using for drawers these days? Plywood, maple? Thx.
I use poplar for almost everything. I build Early American furniture though which was almost always poplar or pine secondary wood. Poplar is easy to hand cut joinery in and cost effective so it’s a good choice.
02-19-2024, 10:34 AM (This post was last modified: 02-19-2024, 10:45 AM by Willyou.)
(02-18-2024, 02:46 PM)fptahoe Wrote: Gonna make my daughter a make up table. It will have two drawers on each side of the table and one in the middle (total 5 drawers). I do drawers using my Leigh D4R Pro jig - - and I dread when I have to use the thing. It does do repeatable drawers, but setting it up is almost beyond my patience level. I have ruled out hand-cut dovetails just because it takes me so long to do one drawer. My question is: does/has anyone used the various matching router bits to do drawer joints? Do they have the same strength and longevity of dovetail joints? Good idea? Bad idea? Any comments would be appreciated so thank you in advance.
You didn't say specifically what the issue is with the D4R. I have the Porter Cable jig which, I assume, works similarly except for the adjustable fingers which mine doesn't have. Maybe this helps: I have simplified the use of mine somewhat by pretty much ignoring the edge adjustments. I first cut my drawer sides over width by a couple of fingers. When cutting the pins and tails, I just center the pieces on the finger guides by eye and make the cuts. I then put the sides together and mark where they need to be ripped to width and edge alignment. This works well for the front and two sides, but is not precise enough to include the back. So, I join the back with dado and rabbet joint (drawer lock) at the back two corners. For me, this is much less fussy and very adequate.
BTW, I have made quite a few drawers using the dado/rabbet joint on all 4 corners and find that it works quite well. The only down side is that after cutting the dado, the edge is left unsupported and is quite weak until the two pieces are glued together. So, be careful to not make them fit too tightly. It helps some to make the dado only a blade width wide and cut the rabbet accordingly ( I think it even looks a bit better ). There are, of course, several variations on this joint.
(02-19-2024, 10:34 AM)Willyou Wrote: You didn't say specifically what the issue is with the D4R. I have the Porter Cable jig which, I assume, works similarly except for the adjustable fingers which mine doesn't have. Maybe this helps: I have simplified the use of mine somewhat by pretty much ignoring the edge adjustments. I first cut my drawer sides over width by a couple of fingers. When cutting the pins and tails, I just center the pieces on the finger guides by eye and make the cuts. I then put the sides together and mark where they need to be ripped to width and edge alignment. This works well for the front and two sides, but is not precise enough to include the back. So, I join the back with dado and rabbet joint (drawer lock) at the back two corners. For me, this is much less fussy and very adequate.
BTW, I have made quite a few drawers using the dado/rabbet joint on all 4 corners and find that it works quite well. The only down side is that after cutting the dado, the edge is left unsupported and is quite weak until the two pieces are glued together. So, be careful to not make them fit too tightly. It helps some to make the dado only a blade width wide and cut the rabbet accordingly ( I think it even looks a bit better ). There are, of course, several variations on this joint.
Thank you, Willyou, a great suggestion. I will give it a try. I will say my issue is more with depth of pins, tightness of joints, keeping the wood clamped securely while I route out the pieces. I just don't find it user friendly - the set up is a PITA. Once it is set up, yes, you can motor through several drawers in short order. Thanks again!
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Still if I make something that I think will be heirloom quality I pull out the D4 and cut DT joints. But to be totally honest, I think the only folks who will notice which joint you used are woodworkers.
