Aniline Dye and Glue

[lift mechanic]

I have all the parts cut to size for 8 dining room chairs. Last time I used water-soluble aniline dye, I had trouble with over lap lines. With the Mission style chairs this will be more of a problem. Has anyone tried to dye all the pieces before assembly. All joints are loose tenon in QSWO using Titebond III. I would think the dye being water base it would not affect the glued joint.

[Willyou]

I think I remember answers to this question on other forums being that the dye will not affect the glue-ip, but don't take that to the bank without confirmation. However, maybe you could spray the dye after all of the glue-up work is done. Particularly with chairs, I think that would be easier anyway. Just be sure to keep glue smudges off of the surfaces to be finished.
Other than that, I would be concerned that all of the handling that is necessary during glue-up might have an adverse effect on pre-dyed work pieces. Remember. The dye does not have a binder in it like most stains do.

[jteneyck]

I think I remember answers to this question on other forums being that the dye will not affect the glue-ip, but don't take that to the bank without confirmation. However, maybe you could spray the dye after all of the glue-up work is done. Particularly with chairs, I think that would be easier anyway. Just be sure to keep glue smudges off of the surfaces to be finished.
Other than that, I would be concerned that all of the handling that is necessary during glue-up might have an adverse effect on pre-dyed work pieces. Remember. The dye does not have a binder in it like most stains do.

The dye will not effect glue up, but Willyou is right to worry about glue up of dyed wood that has not been sealed.  The glue will give the same problems it does on raw wood, but now you can't sand or scrape it off.  

If you want to dye the parts first, then you should at least seal the parts with shellac or a coat of finish to keep the glue from sticking.  Taping off around the joints to be glued would be helpful, too.  

Many people finish the parts completely before glue up, which eliminates the glue contamination problem.  

Personally, I prefer to glue up the parts before doing any finishing, unless the parts are so close together that prefinishing is the only alternative.  

Lap marks usually can be avoided by flooding on the dye and wiping off the excess with a sponge soaked with dye and wrung out.  When using water as the solvent this can lead to grain raising, so either raise the grain first, or use DNA as the solvent (if talking about Transtint dyes).  You can add some alcohol retarder to the DNA, too, to slow down drying.  

John

[Roly]

The dye will not effect glue up, but Willyou is right to worry about glue up of dyed wood that has not been sealed.  The glue will give the same problems it does on raw wood, but now you can't sand or scrape it off.  

If you want to dye the parts first, then you should at least seal the parts with shellac or a coat of finish to keep the glue from sticking.  Taping off around the joints to be glued would be helpful, too.  

Many people finish the parts completely before glue up, which eliminates the glue contamination problem.  

Personally, I prefer to glue up the parts before doing any finishing, unless the parts are so close together that prefinishing is the only alternative.  

Lap marks usually can be avoided by flooding on the dye and wiping off the excess with a sponge soaked with dye and wrung out.  When using water as the solvent this can lead to grain raising, so either raise the grain first, or use DNA as the solvent (if talking about Transtint dyes).  You can add some alcohol stupid to the DNA, too, to slow down drying.  

John

I bet is was auto correct.  Roly

[jteneyck]

I bet is was auto correct.  Roly

Yep.  I gotta reread things more carefully before hitting Post Reply.  I intended to write "retarder", but actually typed "stupid", so auto correct decided "stupid" was better.  It's the brave new world of AI.  

John