Off topic post about watches crossed over to clocks, and I though I'd post up one of my most favorite projects.  I built this clock case/shelf (mesquite) sometime around 1998 I think.  Hermle movement from Woodcraft that I've done absolutely nothing to other than blowing the dust off a couple times when moving it.  It keeps good time, losing maybe a minute a week.  Built it specifically with the David Winter cottages in mind.  We've had it for so many years that I don't always notice the chime (hour count and half hour only), but every time I do it makes me happy... and reminds me to be grateful I have the ability to work wood, and thankful for the people I've 'known' because of that.  Wife mentioned the other day that I probably oughta show her how to wind it.  26 years and she's never done it.  


   

I love my Grizzly G06363X bandsaw, except for the throat plate.  It's probably fine for most cutting needs, but with very narrow parts, like sawing veneer, the work can get pulled down through the opening in the plate.  I have no clue how they thought this was a good design.  



So today I made a new insert from a piece of 1/2" Baltic birch.  The recess the factory insert sits in is only 4.5 mm deep, so I cut a rabatt on the bottom so the top of the new insert is flush with the table.  This stuff is really simple if you happen to have a CNC.  Here's what the simulation showed it would look like.



And after a couple of minutes on the machine I had this.  My measurements were good so the piece fit snugly w/o any adjustments needed.  I made a couple more and gave one to my friend who has the same saw.  



On to my miter saw, I made a new ZCI for it, too.  This was a little more involved, but still easy to do with the CNC.  I used a piece of hardwood planed to the correct thickness and then cut it out.  Unlike the thin factory inserts, it stays flat and can be made perfectly flush with the top of the table.  



On a roll, I made a large angle gauge with common angles to check the set up on my radial arm saw. 45 degrees:



60 degrees:



You get the idea.  And the cutout from the middle works nicely on my miter saw.



I could have made these things by hand, and used to, but the CNC makes it easier to do so with almost guaranteed precision and accuracy.  It's been a great addition to my shop.  

John

Ran into a little problem. My son is doing an Eagle Scout project making raised bed garden boxes for the town library. He thought he was getting pressure treated 2x8 donated but it turned out to be just southern yellow pine. I am thinking raised beds with that will rot out in just a couple years. We had 2 thoughts on how to lengthen their life. One would be to paint the boards but that is going to take a lot of time having to do a couple coats and drying. The other thought was to use something like the Copper-Green wood preservative Lowes Link. I might even be able to spray that. Thoughts?

CMT Crown Molding Cove Cutting Blade  235.006.07: in new unused condition. Excellent blade for cutting coves on table saw: leaves very nice finish. $149 plus shipping.

   

   

Fine Woodworking sent me a promotional email about this company.  Since Rob Lee had a fit about the Katz-Moses router plane, I'm pretty sure his reaction to these planes isn't going to be positive.
https://melbournetool.com/the-story/

I understood, but didn't really agree with his objections to the router plane.  However, this company could probably have worked a little more on developing their own distinctive style and not look like so much like they are reselling Veritas planes.

I just finished and delivered a walnut table. I had to go back to the couple's house because they noticed spots on the table.
I used PMK woodworking's 50/50 wipe on poly method. I put about 24 thin coats of oil based polyurethane on, then sprayed the last coat.
The spots look like finger tip marks. I sanded the heck out of this table with 80, 120, 150, 180. Nothing was ever spilled or set on the top during sanding and finishing.
I know it's a long shot but does anyone have any idea what went wrong? I feel sick knowing that this happened to this awesome table.

Thanks
Eddie

Bill Carter...simple to make {modify} and very efficient at wood {and glue} removal...give them a new life and put those cheap chisels to good use.........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re_bp5Lp0To

The chisels..
   
Plus a few others running around loose..Paul Sellers had a Project in his Masterclasses Free Videos...of a Bench top organizer...though I could use the one I made from that video series..
   
Will need to expand it a little bit, more "elbow room" is needed.   I have 3 planks of Clear 1/2" x 5-1/2" x 24" pine "Project Boards"...

Have a few details to attend to, though..
   
In this case, the "floor" for the compartment sits in a 1/4" x 1/4" groove....which I then had to go around and plug ( with Rosewood scraps, BTW)

The ends were not much better...
   
Plus, that floor sits in a rebate, along the front edge....but can not be allowed to be seen,  Not happy with the end grain showing at each end of the drawer, either..

May do an Overlay drawer front?  Yet, have it close flush with the upper front. 

So..IF anyone wants to follow along....stay tuned...

Still in the box, $25.00 + shipping or pickup in Ellicott City, MD.

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We have been in our house 27 years.  The kids are raised and out.  My wife of 31 years decided she needed to upgrade the laundry The original cabinets were white MDF and a lot smaller inside than they looked.  Anything larger than a bottle of detergent had to be stored in the garage.  The walls were a robin egg blue with wallpaper border at the top. As seen in the "BEFORE" photo, the laundry was cluttered because anything that wouldn't fit in the cabinets was stacked on the dryer top.

We went to the local PPG paint store in search of color palate ideas.  She grabbed a card with 5 different "Shades of Gray".  Yeah, we made our own jokes about that. 

Before Picture

The laundry ended up having light gray walls in eggshell sheen.  My wife also decided to scrape all the awful popcorn off the ceiling and upgrade the light fixture

The cabinets were painted with three coats PPG Break Through Gray Flannel satin finish.  Cabinet interiors are simply clear coated with General Finishes High Performance Satin Poly.  Everything was spray applied.  The PPG Break Through had to be thinned between 10-15% with water to get it to flow out of my Porter Cable HVLP with a 2.2mm needle.  The clears were designed for spraying, so I was able to use a 1.4mm needle with them

After Pics

Cabinets are 1/2"/12mm maple ply with poplar face frames.  Interior shelves are 1/2" plywood with maple edge banding.  The Break Through paint is self priming and went on smooth as butter and appears to be tough as nails.  It stuck to everything, dried fast and hard allowing for smooth sanding between coats.

The center shelves are left over 1/2" maple ply with some red oak front nosing stained dark. The front and top of the shelves are top coated with General Finishes Satin WB The rest of the shelf box frames is scrap poplar and supports the shelves from underneath.  The center shelves are through bolted into the cabinet carcass and supported with 100# drywall anchors at the back.

This is the first time I have used PPG paint as a cabinet color.  Very please so far.  The one take away from the "Break Through" paint is that it dries superfast, which doesn't allow a lot of time to flow out if brushing with a brush.  A decent quality, fine bristle brush designed for water-borne acrylic is going to be a must if not spraying.