Which glue to use?
#21
So epoxies dry black.  So unless you know it will dry clear, then best to avoid.

White glue has been pretty much relegated to hobby use, but early in my picture framing career it was the only glue being used.  It dries clear.  

If the joint does not demand a lot of strength from the glue, then white glue would be my choice.  I think it works fine for many joints.

This is Tightbond's version.  Probably no different from Elmers' glue.  http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=...e7d85cf624

Gorilla Glue dries translucent tan/brown.  They brag that it dries "clear natural".  For some species with stain it might be fine.

How tight or loose the joint is has the greater effect on strength than does the type of glue you use:

http://www.oldbrownglue.com/images/artic...ue_FWW.pdf
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#22
titebond ll  is what I use for most all projects.   you do not need a total water proof glues unless  you are building a boat or where the glue line is underwater.  I have several pieces of outdoor furniture that has been sitting outside in the elements for about 10yrs that I built with titebond ll that are going strong. You only need to use a water resistant glue for outside use, and your table will be undercover, save the water proof for the boats.  Titebond literature will tell you this or it used to the last I read it.
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#23
(12-20-2016, 06:48 AM)Restorer Wrote: titebond ll  is what I use for most all projects.   you do not need a total water proof glues unless  you are building a boat or where the glue line is underwater.  I have several pieces of outdoor furniture that has been sitting outside in the elements for about 10yrs that I built with titebond ll that are going strong. You only need to use a water resistant glue for outside use, and your table will be undercover, save the water proof for the boats.  Titebond literature will tell you this or it used to the last I read it.

I use Titebond III, not for the waterproofness, but because it has about twice a long an open time.  A very handy consideration when doing a complex glue-up.

Titebond, Titebond II = 5 minutes open time.

Titebond III = 10 minutes open time.

http://www.titebond.com/titebond_wood_gl..._Glue.aspx
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#24
Consider me old fashioned but, I prefer white glue. I've been using Gorilla Wood glue for years. In the summer of 2015, I made 10 tables for a restaurant that my wife and I invested in. They are edge glued poplar pieces. The place has been open for 14 months and has seen heavy use since opening. The glue joints have all held up very well, no cracks and no visible glue lines. http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-wood-glue
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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#25
(12-20-2016, 09:23 AM)museumguy Wrote: Consider me old fashioned but, I prefer white glue. I've been using Gorilla Wood glue for years. In the summer of 2015, I made 10 tables for a restaurant that my wife and I invested in. They are edge glued poplar pieces. The place has been open for 14 months and has seen heavy use since opening. The glue joints have all held up very well, no cracks and no visible glue lines. http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-wood-glue

White glue works well when you have face grain to face grain and you have plenty of surface area.  

As a picture framer I tested Framica's "Corner Weld Glue" against Elmer's white glue.  I glued up two identical miters (both with squeeze out) and using my hands for a "scale" I decided that the Framica Corner Weld Glue was much stronger than white glue.  But this was for end grain to end grain.  And Corner Weld was much stronger.  It has been my end grain to end grain glue of  choice ever since.  I have not compared it with Woodworkers II or III.
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#26
(12-19-2016, 04:47 PM)Cooler Wrote: So epoxies dry black.  So unless you know it will dry clear, then best to avoid.

Huh?  All the epoxies I've used cure clear or slightly yellow.  Certainly not black.  If they cured black, a lot of my acrylic pens would look pretty ugly.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#27
(12-20-2016, 12:56 PM)AHill Wrote: Huh?  All the epoxies I've used cure clear or slightly yellow.  Certainly not black.  If they cured black, a lot of my acrylic pens would look pretty ugly.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/66998...hit-lh.pdf

Black or white.
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#28
(12-20-2016, 03:25 PM)Cooler Wrote: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/66998...hit-lh.pdf

Black or white.

Maybe I misunderstood your post, because you didn't qualify your statement that "epoxies dry black".

If 3M Scotch-Weld were the only epoxy available, it would cure white or black.  There are a lot of other epoxies out there that dry clear.  System 3, Lock-tite, etc.  It could cure red or yellow or green, too, if you added dye to the epoxy.  Just sayin' there are choices that don't cure black.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#29
(12-20-2016, 04:46 PM)AHill Wrote: Maybe I misunderstood your post, because you didn't qualify your statement that "epoxies dry black".

If 3M Scotch-Weld were the only epoxy available, it would cure white or black.  There are a lot of other epoxies out there that dry clear.  System 3, Lock-tite, etc.  It could cure red or yellow or green, too, if you added dye to the epoxy.  Just sayin' there are choices that don't cure black.

The problem was in my typing.

I meant to type "some epoxies dry black" but instead I typed "so epoxies dry black".  

I don't think we are much apart once I straighten out my typing errors.
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#30
(12-20-2016, 11:23 AM)Cooler Wrote: White glue works well when you have face grain to face grain and you have plenty of surface area.  

As a picture framer I tested Framica's "Corner Weld Glue" against Elmer's white glue.  I glued up two identical miters (both with squeeze out) and using my hands for a "scale" I decided that the Framica Corner Weld Glue was much stronger than white glue.  But this was for end grain to end grain.  And Corner Weld was much stronger.  It has been my end grain to end grain glue of  choice ever since.  I have not compared it with Woodworkers II or III.

Never heard of Corner Weld glue but I will certainly look into it. Thanks for the info.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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