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Latest Threads
110v Wiring help needed
Forum: Home Improvement
Last Post: shoottmx
4 minutes ago
» Replies: 19
» Views: 375
Wood Carving Knives
Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools
Last Post: Timberwolf
41 minutes ago
» Replies: 27
» Views: 559
DFW, TX - Tormek T7 - Lot...
Forum: Tool Swap N' Sell
Last Post: Admiral
1 hour ago
» Replies: 8
» Views: 577
Shop built lathe extensio...
Forum: Woodturning
Last Post: Stwood_
1 hour ago
» Replies: 20
» Views: 813
80 tooth or 96 tooth for ...
Forum: Woodworking Power Tools
Last Post: SteveS
1 hour ago
» Replies: 8
» Views: 203
Sparkys... Splicing Coppe...
Forum: Home Improvement
Last Post: Phil Thien
1 hour ago
» Replies: 13
» Views: 267
UPDATED Bontz tools (fund...
Forum: Tool Swap N' Sell
Last Post: Dave in Denver
2 hours ago
» Replies: 3
» Views: 290
Woodmovement question
Forum: Woodworking
Last Post: jgourlay
2 hours ago
» Replies: 0
» Views: 40
Befuddled: how to get a ...
Forum: Woodworking
Last Post: jgourlay
2 hours ago
» Replies: 25
» Views: 1,749
Stretching my minimal fin...
Forum: Finishing
Last Post: K. L McReynolds
2 hours ago
» Replies: 0
» Views: 16

  Woodmovement question
Posted by: jgourlay - 2 hours ago - Forum: Woodworking - No Replies

Gents, I need to make a thicker board.  These will be 7" wide, paduak.  The "top" board will be quartersawn, the "bottom" will be flatsawn  - because these are what I have..  Both 1" thick, glued face to face to make 7" by 2" thick board.  

Foresee an issue here? Or is the difference between the flatsawn and quarter sawn expansion rates (1.9% net) small enough to be okay?  Was also thinking about using epoxy, as it has a bit of flex to it.

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Thumbs Up Stretching my minimal finishing experience
Posted by: K. L McReynolds - 2 hours ago - Forum: Finishing - No Replies

Started out finishing with oil based poly when I began making pieces worth finishing(in the late 80's).

Had an outside unheated shop until I moved here(basement shop) in 2008.  So most of my finishing was inside and problematic, since the kitchen table is not a very good place for cabinet sized pieces. And, oil based poly STINKS!!!!

I am a fairly good painter(interior/exterior)---good enough people have paid me and were pleased. But clear finishes were daunting. Got Flexnor's book and learned a bit. Started buying shellac flakes and mixing my own 1 and 3 pound cuts. Stumbled through learning how to apply it. Can rattle can lacquer fairly well.

Got pretty good at non poly varnish(used in a lot in my remodeling trim repair area). It is still my go to finish. Have used water based poly with success. Prefer the finished look of the varnish over the poly.

Decided to try two new ones. Brushing lacquer and clear epoxy bar type coating.

Am making 16 serving trays for Christmas gifts. Three will have the epoxy coating, the rest lacquer---if I can apply it to my satisfaction.

Have already learned self leveling epoxy seems thicker than it actually is. The trays have a frame. The tray is fitted into a rabbited frame. I thought the seal between the tray and the inside top of the rabbit was good enough to work. It was----except for two spots. Uhoh Uhoh The semi dry (I needed two layers) first pour epoxy had seeped through those two areas and stuck the tray to my work bench top  well enough to require a pry bar to separate. Crazy

I know---pictures. On their way, since the epoxy is still drying and I still have 15 sets of handles to cut out, machine and install before finishing.

Ok, a teaser----The tray with initials in the epoxy treated. The top is colored epoxy in a routed channel(not really happy with this)


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Posted by: Hank Knight - 8 hours ago - Forum: Woodworking - Replies (5)

Aaarrrghh! I HATE ROUTERS!

That is all. Carry on.

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  80 tooth or 96 tooth for new miter saw?
Posted by: KingwoodFan1989 - Yesterday, 11:54 PM - Forum: Woodworking Power Tools - Replies (8)

Well, I ordered my new miter saw yesterday (DeWalt 709)...For those fine cuts, I want to have a blade that is meant for a finish cut rather than just general construction (like the blade it comes with). My brother asked me for a gift idea, so I figured I'd ask for a blade. However, I'm wondering if I should get an 80 tooth or a 96 tooth...DeWalt has one with good reviews for about $54 that's an 80 tooth. Will that be fine enough? My 60 tooth I used on my 10" saw cut pretty darn cleanly, so would an 80 tooth be about the equivalent cut quality for a 12", or should I go with the 96"? Keep in mind I work with a lot of REALLY hard woods (Jatoba, for one), so while I want a sleek cut, I don't want to put too much stress on the motor by having a blade that doesn't have enough cutting power. What would you recommend: an 80 tooth or a 96?

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  UPDATED Bontz tools (fundraiser)
Posted by: Aram - Yesterday, 10:34 PM - Forum: Tool Swap N' Sell - Replies (3)

I bought these from Ron Bontz for his fundraising for Rob Hanson (Evenfall Studios, which burned to the ground in the Paradise fires). I intended to put them up in the Christmas auction, so, double fundraiser. The auction is not happening. So I am selling them and will donate the proceeds to Rob's GoFundMe.

Both are brand new, never used. The mallet is 17 ounces, resin-infused hard maple. It should stand up to one heck of a beating.  It also looks fantastic. The scribe is also resin-infused.

Ron himself is standing behind this purchase. He is offering a 100% money back guarantee. If you buy either and you are not happy when you receive it, return it to Ron in the condition you received it. He will refund the purchase price via Paypal after he gets it back. 

You can pay me, or you can donate directly. Either way, I will pick up the tab on shipping and send them your way. CONUS only.

Mallet: $90

Scribe: $35

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  Puukko knife making in Finland
Posted by: Timberwolf - Yesterday, 10:07 PM - Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools - No Replies

start over

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  20" Powermatic 209 Planer Knives - 3 sets
Posted by: Strokes77 - Yesterday, 09:44 PM - Forum: Tool Swap N' Sell - No Replies

I've got 3 sets of Powermatic planer knives.  These came off a 209 planer.  There are 3 sets here, 12 knives in total.  1 set is new and still sharp.  The other 2 sets are dull, but no big knicks or other problems.  Just dull.

These darn things cost $250 a set I think from Powermatic, definitely don't buy from them...  

Who wants em?  I'll start by asking $120 plus shipping... I also have a magnetic jig to set them, if needed as well.  


[Image: 00m0m_cho7uoigIEt_1200x900.jpg]

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  Sparkys... Splicing Copper to Aluminum... or..
Posted by: Snipe Hunter - Yesterday, 09:39 PM - Forum: Home Improvement - Replies (13)

Putting in a new oven. The old one is close enough to where I can move the conductor to serve the new oven. The existing wire is aluminum. The instructions (GE) say this...

The new oven has an 8awg copper BX pigtail. I've never connected aluminum to copper.
Is this the right splice? Link
Anything special I need to know about an the enclosure? Can I use a 4-3/4" box?

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  WTB stringing tools
Posted by: DekalbKona - Yesterday, 06:50 PM - Forum: Tool Swap N' Sell - No Replies

anyone have inlay stringing tools?  especially looking for a radius cutter

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  110v Wiring help needed
Posted by: shoottmx - Yesterday, 03:17 PM - Forum: Home Improvement - Replies (19)

My electrician is crazy busy and I need to get a 110v in-wall heater installed before Monday. I need to tap into a receptacle on a common wall in the next room to power the heater, problem is I'm not sure how to properly connect the wiring.

The receptacle is middle of the run so all 4 poles are in use. How should I go about making the connection so that it's safe and meets code?

Thanks,  g

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