Pulled up carpet and the tack strips, despite my best efforts there are multiple divots where the tacks were. I know best and easy don't go together often but looking for a filler that might be both or at least some ideas on best way to fill. Thanks.

Good afternoon - I"m looking for some hands experienced folks who can compare the Incra 1000SE to the Jessum 07150 miter gauges.  If one had both and wanted to slim the herd which one should he keep?

Rick

I have a shop with a metal roof that has black algae on it I was wondering what is the best way to clean it.

I added a more legible attachment/diagram.

I’ve resurrected a long dormant project and realize i made a calculation error  that now requires a creative solution. I have an idea but want to get the forum opinion on whether the aesthetics  check out.

The project consists of (4) oak plywood boxes  that will be fastened together to creat a built-in credenza that sits on the floor below an existing built-in book shelf system. The credenza will consist of (2) bookshelf boxes and (2) drawer boxes with inset drawers …. which is where the mistake occurred.

 Originally the drawer fronts were going to be oak ply with 3/4” square edging to finish the ply edges. Midstream,  I decided to simplify the front building and I purchased and cut solid oak boards.

 The inside height of the box’s are 23.5”. 

Box #2 is loaded  with (2) file drawers requiring (3) reveal / gaps between drawers and the carcass.. The drawer front board is 11.25” x 2 drawers = 22.5 leaving 1”  divided by 3 reveals = a bit more that 5/16” per reveal.

Box #3 is loaded with (1) file drawer and (2) smaller drawers. The file drawer front is 11.25 x 1, small drawer front is 5.5” x 2 = 22.25, leaving 1.25” divided by 4 reveals = .3125 = 5/16

i was originally planning on 1/8” reveals .

I see 2 solutions (see crude, not to scale diagram attached):

A. Simply Make up for the short fall by adding a strip of oak board to the top of each drawer front that  would be uniform thickness for all file drawers. At minimum it would be about  5/16 but could be more if aesthetic call for it (and I would rip the existing front slab to accommodate).


B. Integrate an oak drawer pull across the entire width of each drawer that sits proud of the top of the front (and makes up the shortfall).   See cross sections diagram. This would replace the original plan for shop-made oak pulls that would have been roughly 1/3 the width iof the drawer, centered and located in the typical vertical position.

Appreciate any thoughts about A or B or perhaps something else.

Thanks for looking.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

of making a bowl, vase or box anyway you wish to make it and post it here on this like.

I am glad I am finally back after doing some major upgrades in the shop in the last 8 months and I feel the GREAT NEED to turn again.  For me I want to make something eye catching and then donate it to a worth cause to action off.

What do you think everyone?   Maybe even find a cause to let time auction them?  

Does anyone have a nice wall set up for say a #1 -#6 and a few saws that I can build easy plans.  I know I can not turn one. 

Hello All,

Due to a stroke and inexorable age, my serious woodworking career has about ended.  Meanwhile, I have a good supply of usable lumber and plywood available for anyone who can pick it up.
I hate to see it go to waste, and my daughter who will inherit it will not know, or care much, what to do with it.
Includes good supply of prox 1x8 walnut.
When enough is gone, there will also be an excellent wood rack which breaks down into manageable pieces.
May also include some small tools for an aspiring woodworker.
Post here for details or email:  rwalden@rwalden.com

I live in Forsyth County, Georgia.  ZIP 30028

Regards,
Russ Walden

I have two dust collectors on opposite sides of my shop.  Each is 1 1/2 hp, wired 240v.  Wondering if I can operate on two remote switches without turning on both at the same time. 

Said another way, do the remote switches all operate on the same radio frequencies?  If yes, may they be adjusted?  Do different brands use different frequencies?  

thanks for suggestions,
tom

I have a Harvey C14 bandsaw and I’m looking for a blade that will give good quality cuts. Hoping to find something that will give smooth sand ready

I have had bad luck with Timberwolf blades. Several breaking at the weld after shortly after changing or after one project. Personally I consider them are junk.

I have used regular carbon Lennox blades when I had a small bandsaw and liked the performance they gave.

Now that I have a bigger bandsaw capable of resawing I need a good resaw blade that isn’t $200. Size blade the saw takes is 125” and the manual saws it can handle 1” but seems like it would max out the tension with that wide of a blade.

Some may enjoy pictures of whaat I do.

Sash Saw
Karelian Masur Birch
350mm long
78mm deep
11 TPI croscut









the last one is with a carved sawyer, i got from my daughter and Wife for my 50st brithday last year. Wonderfulled in Canada, by https://www.instagram.com/aeminotti

Take Care, Pedder